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Dead Taito Type-X = recap practice!

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penrhos View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:25pm
Picked up a Type-X cheaply on YAJ (it was supposed to be working but surprise, surprise it isn't). However it was cheap enough that I could have thrown the insides away and used the case and PSU for a MAME PC to go in the Vewlix, sold the graphics and JVS cards and not lost any money (It actually cost more in shipping than the Type-X cost to buy - I paid 3000 Yen for it!).

I've tested the Graphics card, CPU and RAM in another PC and they seem to be OK but the Type-X wouldn't even post, just a completely black screen and spinning fans (no smoke though).

As I just bought a Duratool de-soldering station I thought I've give a re-cap a try for practice first. Before I attempt to de-solder the PPU in a NES so I can fit a TW RGB PCB into it.

I set the temp to 330 and proceeded to remove all the iffy caps - about 20 in total....

It was suprisingly easy to remove the caps and I only had to turn the heat up to 340 for the ones next to the CPU as there was a lot of heat dissipation there.

It took less than 30 minutes to remove the lot, I'll clean the PCB and replace the CPU fan with a quiet one while I wait for the replacement caps to arrive. Witch should be in 5-7 days time, I did have some the right values but decided I'd buy enough to replace them all with Panasonic low-ESR 105 degree caps to match the ones on the PCB that were OK - I had to order some anyway and it's only £8 inc postage for the lot. 

I will update this thread once I've cleaned the PCB up and again once the caps arrive - it may work, it may not but at least it'll look better and I'll have had plenty of practice....













Almost every one of these has blown or vented and they are all the same manufacturer - the other caps on the motherboard are by a different company and they are fine. This is a known problem with crap capacitors on the Type-X mainboards that's made worse by poor airflow which results in the ones next to the CPU and power regulators getting cooked.

I checked a couple of better looking ones with a meter and they were knackered.




Edited by penrhos - 24 May 2020 at 1:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ace` Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:27pm
Those nichicon 3300uf 6.3v are the same ones in original xbox consoles that vent / leak. Must have been a (very large) bad batch as nichincon are considered to be pretty much the best.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddhorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:29pm
Nice work, great to see that you get what you pay for with a desoldering station vs your time spent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:38pm
Originally posted by Ace` Ace` wrote:

Those nichicon 3300uf 6.3v are the same ones in original xbox consoles that vent / leak. Must have been a (very large) bad batch as nichincon are considered to be pretty much the best.

Either that or they're counterfeit.

This is the second Type-X I've had with blown caps - the other it was just the 10mm*20mm 3300uf @ 6.3V ones that run next to the CPU.

I replaced those using a combination of SS-02 solder sucker, hot-air gun and soldering iron - it was a nightmare and I told myself I'd never do another one. It did fix the random rebooting and BSOD's it was having though so although it took me well over 2 hours to do it was worth it...

This was like a socially distanced walk in the park....


Edited by penrhos - 23 May 2020 at 11:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote big10p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:39pm
Lot easier with a de-soldering gun, innit. Feels like cheating, somehow. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:48pm
Originally posted by big10p big10p wrote:

Lot easier with a de-soldering gun, innit. Feels like cheating, somehow. LOL

Hell yeah - and it was a bargain - got it from CPC and it came next day delivery included in the price - the cheapest amazon sellers were in Europe and weren't shipping due to covid-19.

I'm not going back to a manual sucker unless it's just a couple of connections. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davey d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 5:06pm
It's a great feeling when you use one of these desoldering guns on a large rom chip and it just falls out after you have sucked the last pin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John Bennett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 5:43pm
Maybe the ripple current eventually kills them. Some capacitors get a harder life than others.
http://www.philwip.com -sibling 'fix-off' (I’m losing by miles).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddhorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 6:37pm
Do you have a link to that one on CPC?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cools Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 7:36pm
Got lucky with a junk TypeX I picked up in December just for the case. It had no RAM, amd the GPU was knackered - sorted those and it's working pwrfectly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 7:39pm
Originally posted by Eddhorse Eddhorse wrote:

Do you have a link to that one on CPC?


£86.51 inc VAT.

Comes with 3 tips, 3 nozzle cleaning pins, 4 small filters for the gun and 2 large filter for the pump.

You'll need some additional filters but they're on back order with CPC so eBay/Amazon if you need any, note they also sell spare parts for it so if the gun, heating element etc break you can get the bits to repair it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 7:55pm
A quick blow with compressed air and a brush down with IPA to remove the electrolyte and it looks a lot better, I took the heatsinks off and applied some decent thermal paste, and swapped the CPU heatsink for a better spec one. 

Not that the TDP matters much as this only has a Celeron 2.5Ghz CPU installed.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbz149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:24pm
But does the Board now Live? Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 10:35pm
Originally posted by bbz149 bbz149 wrote:

But does the Board now Live? Big smile


I wont know until the replacement caps arrive mid-week, I've got enough to replace the ones for the pci slots but not the power section..

Now I've had a bit of practice with it I'm going to desolder the PPU in one of the Nintendo av-famicoms I had for sale so it's ready for a TW RGB board install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Retroman839 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 9:31pm
good work.
can i afford a solder sucker?

i’m hoping you get this working

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Retroman839 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 9:37pm
do these have a bios battery ?
i’m sure you know that already
but just asking as symptoms are same when bios battery dies
(no post fans spin )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbz149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by penrhos penrhos wrote:

Originally posted by bbz149 bbz149 wrote:

But does the Board now Live? Big smile


I wont know until the replacement caps arrive mid-week, I've got enough to replace the ones for the pci slots but not the power section..

Now I've had a bit of practice with it I'm going to desolder the PPU in one of the Nintendo av-famicoms I had for sale so it's ready for a TW RGB board install.
Fingers crossed then Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2020 at 3:15am
Think I really need a proper desoldering gun. Is it easy to use?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2020 at 12:45pm
Really easy to use, set the temp, put onto the thing you want to desolder, press down,  wait until solder melts, pull trigger and hey presto its done...

I found wiggling the head around the leg slightly helps prevent solder tags - watch this from about 7 mins if you want to skip the unboxing.


@Retroman839 - yes, I checked the bios battery and it's OK - the Type-X won't even switch on if the CMOS battery is flat/missing.


Edited by penrhos - 24 May 2020 at 12:51pm
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