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Dino Kings Restore / Conversion Log

Printed From: ukVac.com
Category: Technical
Forum Name: Artwork and Restorations
Forum Description: Arcade related artwork & place to show or get help with restorations
URL: http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=357010
Printed Date: 18 Nov 2017 at 4:44am


Topic: Dino Kings Restore / Conversion Log
Posted By: Flinnster
Subject: Dino Kings Restore / Conversion Log
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 1:44am
I thought I'd start a little log of my latest project(s).

I just picked up two Dino King cabs, both destined for Jamma conversion.
They actually both fit in a hatchback, with a couple of cm to spare!




It's not actually the first time I've had my head in a Dino King cab - I picked up two last year as well, but those were partially converted, so it was a case of getting those going again and improving them, rather than going from scratch.
(Here's one I did earlier...)




So this is the first time I've seen the full innards of an actual Dino King, straight from the operator floor (Ulp!) Shocked

Only some of the vinyl arwork on the outside has survived unfortunately. Plenty of tape, stickers and gunge on these that all needs cleaning up properly too.
Thankfully the CRTs look pretty good - no burn, and the plexi monitor covers are only lightly scratched (so I might give Novus a go on those much later on).



I'll probably strip the side and front vinyl artwork despite the artwork being pretty nice.
One of my existing Dino King cabs has the original artwork in good condition, so I'll keep that one as-is, but go different with these.

The control panel is of course unusable for anything but the original game, and features rock / paper / scissors buttons and a massive barcode / card scanner which to be honest blocks the bottom portion of the monitor.
Inside and around the cabs were a ton of bits and pieces - spare dino cards, management key, marquee / standee art, various metal bits and the service manuals. 21p and a free TORX screwdriver too Wink




Only had time to do a quick cursory check over and clean up a couple of bits. I did remove the security bars / hasps from both cabs straight away though - these swing about and can easily damage doorframes and other cabs when space is not plentiful.
So here they are, sat next to eachother, waiting for work to begin....




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door



Replies:
Posted By: tronads
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 7:09am
Have a word with Vic regarding a control panel he has for sale.


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 7:35am
That Mr Driller one above used to be mine, before Sarj had a go at it :(

I do have a nice panel for sale and can make more...



-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 11:21am
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:

That Mr Driller one above used to be mine, before Sarj had a go at it :(

I do have a nice panel for sale and can make more...



Yep big shame on that one, but it's back to life and 100% being used, which is a good thing Thumbs Up
How much do those CP's cost each? (And also.. no start button on them?)


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 11:37am
You can wire 1p button one to start, but I am going to add a 24mm start button hole to the left of the joystick.

£40 each + postage

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 6:04pm
Ah OK.. yep I'm the same with wanting separate start button(s).
 
My plan was to do either SEGA Blast City or Astro City in style for the outer artwork, so something a little like this really....


I'll have a ponder about the layouts... my current 2 cabs both have the start on the right side.. I'd not really considered it before but I could do two with the start on the opposite side, so when put next to eachother they replicate a full Astro City CP.. hmmm Approve


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: tronads
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 9:04pm
I can guarantee that you will not find a better quality Dino King control panel than that which Vic has recently manufactured. 

It's difficult to describe the material, as its like perspex sandwiched between alloy, but its totally rigid, smooth edged and fits perfectly. They do not flex so will have no bother surviving being posted.

I was walking near work the other day and I noticed that the street names plaques they have on posts about 2 feet off the ground on our business estate appeared to be made of the same material.

I am over the moon with mine.....but tomorrows job is to cut 2 more 24mm holes in it.....so if I make a mess of it, I'll be buying Vic's other one !





Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 10:16pm
That is what the material Is used for! These panels are made from large off cuts.

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 11:21pm
If you want a panel, I can put the start button any where you like!


-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 3:21pm
Ah cheers! Would be cool to be able to specify the hole positions to suit the artwork (when I've made it!)

Sounds like a very interesting material then - how do you mount the joystick? It is bolt-through on those holes only, or is there any way to mount studs on the underside?
I'm thinking about whether to make 4 closely matching cabs you see - my current 2 dont match at all yet, but at least they both have bolt-free CP joystick mounts ;)

(probably getting a little ahead of myself anyway...)



-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 3:29pm
Today I took a look at the first of the newly collected cabs and started cleaning it up so I could give it a test power-up.

The best side for artwork is on the right (only a small corner taken out of the original vinyl art). Unfortunately the left side hasn't fared so well and the top third is missing. The adhesive residue left behind has collected a ton of crud, so I hope that isn't going to be too tough to get off.
The front door art is pretty scratched, and the edges are fraying and peeling. I think that's eventually gonna go (or I can swap the door over).



Inside the front is the standard coin door credit board, but the coin mech is dead, and no entry light. Then its Sega metal overload!
The ticket/card dispenser is in the middle, and a buckled up coin door on the left (operator mangled, not me). Inside there's tape over one of the coin meters?
Behind that are the 2 RFID readers/writers for the management / security chips, which are missing. Finally above that, all metal panelled off is the test panel and entry for the compact flash card that the game data is held on.

In the back, the monitor chassis, then a large space with the Sega system SP game board. There's a VGA connector to the monitor from this. The game seems to be the 2.5 version from 2008, the more recent Dino King game.
Then below there are two PSU boards - I'd guess one for the game board and the other for the ticket dispenser and RFID readers.
Right at the bottom is a dim dark area with the main ISO transformer. It all seems to be covered in a thick blank gunk.




Started to shift a bit of that black gunk and found a load more dino king cards, and a Sega lock tang, which is nice as they are hard to come by!
But the majority of the gunk was really sticky.. it was like the beach had washed in or something. So that's going to need a load more scrubbing.




Around the cab there are serial number stickers, but not the official SEGA blue logo type ones - these look more like something associated with the rental of these machines. So I thought I'd remove those. To my surprise the barcodes stayed on the paint when I removed them! Some kind of security sticker?

Ah no.. it turns out there were actually multiple serial number stickers on top of eachother and only the top one was orange! ;) There's also a nice inspection record on the rear door showing the cab was last inspected in 2015. So that'll be going as well...



Back to the front then, and onto the CP so I can start cleaning the plastics. I unscrewed all the screws and the CP simply wouldn't come off!
After a bit of a struggle I heard a loud crack and my heart sank.. I really thought I'd cracked the main plastic that surrounds the CP and monitor.

But no! It seems the sticky gunk trail continues.. it's as if the CP was stuck down hard with something like coke from a spillage. I literally cracked the paint off the back of the CP.. and thankfully the plastics are fine.

So after that.. all that remained was to start cleaning out the standard operator grime, so out came the packet of multi-purpose wipes, spray, cloths etc..



I removed the monitor plastics and spent a good few hours giving everything a good scrub and multiple wipes down - removing coke gunge, the thick black dust, bits of paint and other marks. Dismantling parts as I went, I worked my way round the entire cab, cleaning the coke from the underside and wheels,  and doing my best to clean up the side art adhesive too, in case I don't strip it completely.




I finished off by stripping out the blanking metal panels inside, cleaning as I went - the cab starting to look more like something I recognise at this point!
A lot of what I thought was rust was actually that brown sticky coke like gunk - but there's still quite a few bumps and nicks to magic eraser, or fill with a white paint pen.

So with everything relatively clean (I only lightly brushed the Iso transformer and monitor chassis areas), I re-assembled the card dispenser and RFID readers, plugged everything back in, connected a mains lead (and took the management chip from the other cab) and stood back!

And wahoo! Boots up, monitor runs, audio working etc.. all good. Sadly no credits left on the management chip, so all I get is a kid's voice calling out a message to go find a local attendant.. er.. that'll be me then?Wink Went through the test modes and all seems pretty good.




Shame the management chip credits have all been used. Otherwise I would definitely have a few plays of the original Dinosaur King game just for a laugh!
(I did notice that the RFID reader is a writer too.. which got me thinking... surely it's possible somehow to re-write credits to the management tag?)
I know Sega no longer support the game, so getting extra credits from them isn't likely!




Anyway, if it's not possible to run the game any more, are any of the specific game parts even worth anything to anyone these days?

- Sega System SP board & associated PSUs
- Dinosaur King 2.5 CF card (256Mb)
- Card dispenser + card weight (the big H-shaped block of metal)
- 2x RFID readers/writers
- 2player rock/paper/scissors control panel (microswitch buttons)
- Barcode reader block
- Security bar / hasp and mounting bolts
- Various metal inner parts from inside

-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 3:48pm
RE: joystick holes in panel

You can't weld any threaded studs to this material, so the joystick holes are necessary. I always use dome headed M4 coach bolts, so they still look neat.

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2017 at 11:37pm
Cheers vic! I shall have a butchers for those M4 coach bolts next Thumbs Up

I started stripping out the final cab today. To save repeating myself, same thing again but a bit less cleaning and a lot more removing of bits. This one fired up first time too and the monitor is OK, all tests fine once again, so I just got on with removing the game boards, shelves, wiring/ main game loom etc..

I'll clean up the bits when I get spare moments in the coming weeks - as I'm waiting for jamma parts to arrive now anyway.... Sleepy

What I would like to know is .. the stepdown transformer at the base of the cab - how much residual charge is left in these things after power off? Am I going to get a jolt of voltage if I start disconnecting and removing the stepdown, and giving it a good clean?

Also I need to bridge some connections from the mains filter at the back of the cab to run to the switching supply. It's the first time I've dealt with anything 'mains side' - what wire should I use (just a standard bit of power cord with live/neutral/earth?) and is there a best-practice 'place' to connect to / connectors to use? Any advice appreciated! Smile




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 1:21am
Spent this evening messing with some mockups. I've decided that I do want to keep the top panel for game artwork, no matter what style I end up with.
My original plan of a Sega Astro 'Mini' City look means taking a lot of artistic license with the Astro City layout.. it has no marquee on the cabinet itself of course.
So, I'm not 100% certain on any of these yet.. but this is kinda where I'm heading...







-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 5:21am
Are you going for to want me to make up some panels for you?

Pm me if you do.

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 11:12am
Hey Vic Wink I certainly will - you have a PM Big smile


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: penrhos
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 5:25pm
If you're binning the leftovers I wouldn't mind the System-SP board to play with...


Posted By: tronads
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 6:18pm
The marquee is something I need to look at next. 
I think I will try and hairdryer the Dino King bit off.


Posted By: muddymusic
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 7:44pm
My marquees have always just been a bit of paper with tape around the outside, usually pull straight off by hand in one piece!

-------------
Repro Arcade Artwork supplier, pm me or visit arcadeartshop.com


Posted By: tronads
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 9:40pm
This one appears a bit more substantial, i wasnt able to get it started with my fingernail.......I'm hoping you might be able to offer something in your art shop i can replace it with :-)


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 9:51pm
Quote
If you're binning the leftovers I wouldn't mind the System-SP board to play with...


I wasn't planning on completely binning anything just yet, sorry Tongue (although I could have my arm twisted with trades or some funds for the project).

As mentioned elsewhere if I do get a chance to get some credits or to grab a hacked copy of the game to copy on the CF card, then I can still give the actual Dino King game a go (I'm doing my mods in a way where I could just hook the original board, PSUs + ticket gubbins straight back in - no wires cut here!

There were also some other odd titles for the SP system that I quite fancied taking a look at, just not sure if they will run by simply copying over the data, or whether they'll need a specific security chip and yet more RFID credits.
I mean, what's not to love about this!





Quote
The marquee is something I need to look at next. I think I will try and hairdryer the Dino King bit off.
This one appears a bit more substantial, i wasnt able to get it started with my fingernail.......


Yep I guess you are talking about the official Dino King SEGA marquee + info strip at the bottom. One of mine already had these removed so it's certainly possible.... then I have 3 to try and take off without damaging the original artwork Confused
From what I can see they appear to be glued around the edges only, so as you suggested gentle heat with a hairdryer on a corner should lift them off... let me know how it goes! Big smile

-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: penrhos
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 10:20pm
I was thinking of Giant Tetris or future police....

I know somone on AP is working on an rfid emulator for ID - might be possible to get it working on these too.




Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 11:40pm
Originally posted by penrhos penrhos wrote:

I was thinking of Giant Tetris or future police....

I know somone on AP is working on an rfid emulator for ID - might be possible to get it working on these too.



Surely Giant Tetris only works if you have the mahoosive screen? Although with VGA out I guess it's possible to just rig up a massive telly LOL

But yeah, RFID emulation would be superb. Even better would just be twisting the wires together and holding it together with foil and chewing gum, you know.. McGuyver style Wink


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 11:36pm
I'd been pondering stripping out the step-down transformer to clean better, but was hesitant on whether it would hold any charge.
I finally had the balls to get it removed, and did the mains filter too. I tested everything with the multimeter and yep, as some had suggested ... nothing.
Phew!



So with those gone I could do the full hoover and wet-wipe clean of the entire cab inside and out. The torn and scratched vinyl art was stripped, after a little advice from Tony Mr Arcade Blogger himself Smile
All came out pretty clean, with the usual scrapes at the back and around the base from being on location (probably will try a gloss white paint pen / car touch up brush where the cab is scratched back to bare metal).




I then also stripped the vinyl sides from the first cab I got hold of.
This originally had Mr Driller art stuck on top, but that had long gone when I collected it, leaving adhesive marked and torn white vinyl on either side.
Now... if you go to the effort of completely covering a cab in vinyl, it's probably to cover up something nasty, so I was a bit fearful of what I'd find...



I think I got away pretty lightly on that one! Tongue
Sure there's a sketchy area at the top on one side but it's mostly pristine. If anything the white vinyl I took off has protected the cab during it's unfortunate time stripped out in a garden shed (before I got hold of it).

So all four mini-cabs are now together in a row - the 'mini-arcade'!
Two blank white for my re-designs, and two that still have the original Dino King orange art on either side and on the front doors.
I still have two sets of working Dino King internals too, and my conversions are being done in a way where I could plug the original hardware back in if I ever have a way to run the original game.




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 11:55pm
You could have asked what was under the vinyl - it was no secret - just to cover a few bumps!

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2017 at 12:07am
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:

You could have asked what was under the vinyl - it was no secret - just to cover a few bumps!


I guess that's true! I keep forgetting who has had what in the past! LOL

Sorry to be undoing your hard work fella Cry
Unfortunately it was ripped up in a couple of places where it had snagged on things so it had to go anyway... I figured if I did uncover a black hole or something, I could hastily get a couple of fresh white pieces to apply!


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: THEVLM
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2017 at 6:09pm
All four of them lined up and wired up will look sick, any intentions on linking two together for head to head?


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 10:25pm
Originally posted by THEVLM THEVLM wrote:

All four of them lined up and wired up will look sick, any intentions on linking two together for head to head?


Yes I already have the controls for 2 of them linked, so 2 player option. For 4 players it will depend on the exact game board and how player 3+4 looms are wired in. I expect using some kind of kick-style harness arrangement.

For the monitors I got the image working fine on some games, but with horizontal distortion on others. Tried adding more grounding to the loom and video ground on that but it made no difference, so I'm still to try different approaches for better video with no interference (might use a straight VGA splitter and a regular shielded VGA cable for instance)






-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: muddymusic
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 7:57am
I always got some interference if I kept the vga connector on the video wiring, now I always cut that off, shorten the cable a few feet and solder the rgb from the new loom straight on, don't get any issues then.

-------------
Repro Arcade Artwork supplier, pm me or visit arcadeartshop.com


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by muddymusic muddymusic wrote:

I always got some interference if I kept the vga connector on the video wiring, now I always cut that off, shorten the cable a few feet and solder the rgb from the new loom straight on, don't get any issues then.


So all of mine that are converted so far are running on little VGA breakout boards, and when connected up just as a single cab with jamma the monitors are totally fine. I only get weirdness when trying to do linking across two cabs.
I wonder if the jamma signal is just really weak for these kinds of monitors maybe? Certainly the similarity between what you are describing and what I've found, is just 'length of wire' really? Wacko


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 3:26pm
With the various bits for my jamma wiring having arrived, I managed to get a bit of time in the evenings this weekend to do some dabbling on the mains side of the cab.
It was the first time sorting out those connectors and making sure everything was safe / sane for me, so I'm pretty pleased with how tidy it all came out.
I don't even have proper crimp tools, so doing those connectors with just the tools I had available was a slight pain, but got there in the end!



I've made sure there's enough cable running to the switching supply so I keep my options open on where to place it. Both my converted cabs have the switchers next to the front door, but there's an unused space in the back corner where they would fit nicely (just need to make a new MDF panel to sit them on).
Then the current MDF panel at the front of the cabinet base can be used for a game board - it's perfectly sized for an MVS 1-slot or a PGM motherboard.


After that it was a case of popping the stripped & cleaned top shelf back in, together with the test/service panel that has the monitor power connection.
Wired up the JAMMA harness, RGB outputs and speaker and fired up the cab for a quick test with a cheapy pandora's box as my test board.
All good - worked first time, and the monitor just needed a little tweaking with the pots to get a little skewing at the top of the image removed.




So next up I turn my attention to the control panel. This one is going to have a 2 player 4 button panel for starters - I just need to get the hole position measurements over to Vic so he can get it made up for me.




Then because I plan to do hot-swapping of the control panels between 1 & 2 player versions, I need to try and source one of these metal panels from behind the Dino King control panel that holds the JST connectors in place.

Sadly it was missing on this cab (pics of the bit of metal, and how it looks  when fully fitted on a cab). If anyone has one of these going spare that they don't need, please get in touch!




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Zipper
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 12:02am
Thanks to Muddymusic, I've got a Dino King lined up and cannot wait to get stuck into it. This thread will come in very handy, and I'm really interested to see where you go with the art on your cabs.
I've been thinking what to do with mine and I've finally settled on a theme... I'm going to base it on an MVS-U4. Been messing around with designs and a credit counter..
https://postimg.org/image/b8s94q28f/" rel="nofollow"> https://postimage.org/" rel="nofollow - free picture upload
I was thinking I'd really love a dedicated Green Beret or Kung Fu Master cab... but I really do love MVS, and especially the U4. I'm aiming to add headphone jack, memory card reader, mini marquees on the bezel... with luck, a proper mini version of the full size cab. Should keep me busy for a while Cool


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 12:09am
That looks super interesting - I would guess you are after one with a blue monitor bezel then Approve
I'd love to see more details on your credit counter - being driven from Mame or something?
And also where you plan to mount the headphone socket - I'd thought about that one too.. the plastic underneath the CP area has a flat base where things can be hidden out of view, possibly...

For the mini-marquees, you might need to do custom shrunk ones for a 4-wide lineup. There's barely enough room for two of them at their real size on a little Dino cab Wink

Good luck with it!


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Zipper
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 12:28am
Thanks Smile
I got an orange bezel, but white sides to the cab - which I think could be more important to me.
I'm going to cut a rectangular bezel out of acrylic (I hope) and have this behind / sandwiched...
https://postimg.org/image/kyk8f0o9b/" rel="nofollow"> https://postimage.org/" rel="nofollow - forum image hosting
Swappable, shrunk mini marquees that slot in the back (rather than just these 4).
I was thinking to just drive the coin counter in parallel with coinup (increment) and P1 start (decrement)- and probably use mame (which emulates a 4-slot well)... But after finding this thread by NES4Life today:  http://www.ukvac.com/forum/arduino-neo-geo-mvs-mvled-mvela-replacement_topic339396.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.ukvac.com/forum/arduino-neo-geo-mvs-mvled-mvela-replacement_topic339396.html
.... Having the MVS hardware drive the counter would be ace.
 


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 12:38am
Ah shame, the blue bezel would work well with your style (other than the Sega logo, just to mess it up!). If you don't need your orange bezel, I might be interested! Embarrassed

All looks good though, and the arduino counter is very neat - just need to make sure you have an MVS mobo with the relevant player credit board connectors? (from the top of my head, the MV-1FS has them, but the MV-1FZ doesn't annoyingly, as it fits brilliantly in a dino king!).


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:55pm
I had zero time to do anything arcade related this weekend. However on my browsing travels I discovered these! No idea what the actual game is.. but another flavour of the same Sega mini-cab design as the Dino Kings!
Fishy! Big smile








-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 11:57pm
Long time no progress on the cabs. I got a bit of tidying up done this weekend though - finally got round to sorting out a proper base to mount the switching supply on to free up more space at the bottom of the cab.
Now my solution is nothing snazzy (not as impressive as Franco's creations, that's for sure!), but it gets the job done.

Normally my switcher and any additional boards like the MVS or PGM motherboards have to share the tiny little mounting board where the card dispenser used to live. It's pretty cramped:



My plan is to move the switcher to the space in the back corner of the cab:



I cut a C-shaped MDF panel to fit, and drilled countersunk holes to match where the original
cable tidy hole points are in the base. All hand-cut here, no motorised tools unfortunately:



With that done, I gave the bottom area a good clean and made sure I'd have enough length of wire to reach where's needed:



Slotted the MDF shape into place, which fits around the existing transformer mounting panel to be fairly snug:



But to be completely secure, I've bolted it into place using M4 bolts and nuts, that use the existing holes already in the base of the cab:



With the MDF tightly in place, it was just a case of mounting the switching supply again, and
popping the front area panel back in.. space at last!




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 9:24pm
More updates Smile

Vic sent over some 2 player control panels that he'd kindly manufactured for me, having spent ages re-working my bonkers measurements to something a little more sane for his engineering mind and machines Tongue They have a nice smooth white surface on top, and the backing is more textured, like brushed metal in style.

Thanks Vic! I don't think it was actually possible to put any more holes in one of these panels was it?



He even sent over a green ball top so I was able to have matching sticks and buttons!
Here's how it all looks in place:






-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 10:49pm
Much better now that collars match cuffs :D

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 12:23am
Thanks again! I now need to up my collection of cute and colourful 2 player game boards! Thumbs Up


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Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: tronads
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 12:31am
Told yer you'd be impressed with Vic's panels :-)


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 5:20am
You need some Mr driller pcbs. Or maybe even Uo Poko?

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 12:23pm
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:

You need some Mr driller pcbs. Or maybe even Uo Poko?


I still have the Mr Driller marquee and CP art Tongue Although I missed out on a board a while back.

As for crazy Uo Poko (isn't that the current 10p compo game?), I would need to obtain the kitty paw joystick ball!
(Or... rig up an old-skool toilet flush!)



-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 12:38pm
Good luck with that. They are made out of sparkly unicorn poo.

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Chunksin
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 1:11pm
And sparkly unicorn poo ain't cheap: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UOPOCO-FULLKIT-original-japan-jamma-CAVE-4-catpaws-covers-uopoko-uo-poco-/361304025515?hash=item541f65e9ab:g:8OsAAOSwqu9VERlY" rel="nofollow - link  Shocked


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 1:21am
LOL It's because it has the word 'CAVE' on it! Still got to love it all though.
But yeah... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/cave-Uo-poko-uo-poco-GREEN-cat-paw-rare-/361885509457" rel="nofollow - woah

Hang on.. that ebay listing says Uo Poko is co-operative 2 player?! Cool




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 19 May 2017 at 7:28pm
I have been working away getting some custom marquee art finished for printing for 2 of the cabs. The art is a 'homage' - it's not meant to recreate the original marquees, but I have taken plenty of cues from old flyers and instruction strips to keep the vibe there, I hope.



I carefully removed both sets of artwork from the back of the monitor bezel so they can be reused in future if I want to.
Then trimmed the new art to fit and carefully mounted it into place, ready for the cabs to head to Revival this weekend.

So here's how they look now:




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Chunksin
Date Posted: 19 May 2017 at 7:42pm
My LCD Dino is ready to go too, check out the cracked bezel, I'll put some stickers on it or something!



Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 19 May 2017 at 8:00pm
Looking cool though! Big instruction strip and a load of blu-tack maybe? Confused


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 11:05pm
I don't seem to have had much chance to get hands on with cabs since Revival, which flew by as a complete blur!
Hello to everyone I met up with and happilly geeked out on arcade and retro stuff with for the whole weekend  Wink

Unfortunately the Pang cab didn't make it (last minute logistics!) but Wonder Boy went down well, many not realising the artwork was all custom designed, which was cool - means I did the job well enough!


My attention has turned to the hot-swapping of control panels - I have some more metal panels coming from afar at the end of next month so I'm getting all my bits and pieces together for these.
Firstly I grabbed some cheap Sanwa sticks and gave them a good refurb scrub / bubble bath and sunbathe.
With a couple of new ball tops they came out really nicely I think - just gotta get some connecting cables and dust washers for those now.



Then I worked out a plan for wiring the pins on the JST connectors, that sit in the metal panel behind the CP.
Looks like I can cram everything for all the various combos of 1 & 2 player panels onto a single 21-pin connector, which is ace:






Next up I think I need to go shopping for a crimp tool, as I'll probably be crimping JST pins for the next few months! Wacko


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Bods
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 2:58pm
Nice to see someone doing things properlySmile

Glad the machines I got all have the internals still so I can use the connectors like yourself for wiring the panels up as I was planning one having different ones with special control layouts for other games than standard joystick n buttons

Don't know why people rip all that stuff out and shove wires through, yeah it's quick way to do stuff but to me it's just a bodge job

They make an awesome Mini Arcade setup don't theySmile



-------------
WANTED! Buggy Boy Junior Rear Seat. Continental Circus Cockpit Lower Rear Light Plexi and more space


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 11:25pm
Thanks Bods!

Yeah, I'm trying to do things properly rather than just hack... whether I manage them all is another matter! Wink The JST connector for hot-swapping was originally suggested by Paulie, so I'm running with it! It all takes a lot more fiddling and faffing, but I'm making these for my enjoyment so it's a total labour of love.

The mini arcade is great Smile This evening Metal Slug X, Bubble Bobble and Street Fighter 2 were on in a row Thumbs Up

Also had some various blonding chemicals arrive from t'internet, so if the weather holds for next weekend, I'll be doing some retrobriting for the first time too!


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: rcantor77
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 7:21am
Dave, you saw inside of mine... if you have the original loom then if you pull all of the wires out of the original sockets then they are the perfect length already to vcreate a Jamma harness and you have no need to crimp anything... i didn't need to.

-------------



Posted By: Bods
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 7:56am
Originally posted by Flinnster Flinnster wrote:

Thanks Bods!

Also had some various blonding chemicals arrive from t'internet, so if the weather holds for next weekend, I'll be doing some retrobriting for the first time too!


Yeah, I really need to start doing that too, I got a bottle already, should of thought about it last week with that blooming sunshine we had for days. Not just Arcade bits I want to do, got loads of Commodore stuff, Shoe Phone I bought for the missus that should be White, be great to restore some stuff

It's worth taking time on these things though. 3 cabs of mine I was going to use for mame, looking to install jamma loom though instead of just wiring up an Ipac, then you can play arcade pcb's too if I want, trying to plan it out so I can fit everything in. I was trying different options like old ArcadeVGA Cards but they don't work very well, it seems to stretch the image to wide and you can't adjust the monitors right, Soft15khz is fantastic though, no issues with width. Was going to work on the Missus machine first but then I picked up a cheap Virtual Pinball with fault so cracked on with that as I only had a month to sort something for birthday but need to get back to the Dino cab soon

Been thinking of options to make switching Control Panels easily, one game I wanted to play is Discs Of Tron, original cabs are too much for me to pay but I have original Joystick and spinner so thats one Panel I will have to swap on it, could add some UV LEDs I guess into the panel to light the Joystick up too, make it look cool




-------------
WANTED! Buggy Boy Junior Rear Seat. Continental Circus Cockpit Lower Rear Light Plexi and more space


Posted By: Nes4life
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 8:32am
If only there was an event (based at an awesome retro-focused venue in Cambridge) where you guys could all bring your Dino Kings together... on Sat 2nd September

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/the-arcade-experience-in-cambridge_topic357853.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.ukvac.com/forum/the-arcade-experience-in-cambridge_topic357853.html

-------------
NES4Life
-------------
Owner of ... too many cabs!


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 3:38pm
Right on for that, the mini-arcade lives!!
I'm aiming to bring all 4 of mine to Cambridge with maybe the odd suprise Wink Who else is in? Thumbs Up


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: TWB
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Nes4life Nes4life wrote:

If only there was an event (based at an awesome retro-focused venue in Cambridge) where you guys could all bring your Dino Kings together... on Sat 2nd September

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/the-arcade-experience-in-cambridge_topic357853.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.ukvac.com/forum/the-arcade-experience-in-cambridge_topic357853.html


I could bring 1, two if I get my ass into gear and get it finished

-------------
WANTED
Cabs: Defender project & Asteroids.
PCBs: Galaxian, Gun Smoke, Phoenix & Rainbow Islands.


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 6:09pm
Sounds great! Smile

-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 7:08pm
Quote Dave, you saw inside of mine... if you have the original loom then if you pull all of the wires out of the original sockets then they are the perfect length already to create a Jamma harness and you have no need to crimp anything... i didn't need to.


Actually I never got a chance to see inside yours fully, I should have grabbed a better look!
I was planning on keeping my original loom intact so I could still use the original Dino King hardware while I still have some management chip credits left.
So I have fresh looms on all the cabs already, trying to keep it clean Wink

Quote
..should of thought about it last week with that blooming sunshine we had for days.

Yep, that's what spurred me on to order the peroxide! Then of course it decided to rain... roll on August!

Quote
Been thinking of options to make switching Control Panels easily, one game I wanted to play is Discs Of Tron, original cabs are too much for me to pay but I have original Joystick and spinner so thats one Panel I will have to swap on it, could add some UV LEDs I guess into the panel to light the Joystick up too, make it look cool


This is something I'd like to see! Big smile



-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2017 at 7:24pm
Well a little more progress on the swappable CP's and on one of the Dino King cabs.

I figured I should just see how it goes with the crimping, so with soldering iron and trusty cheapo pliers in hand, I lopped the perfectly working loom in two and started splicing in those damned JST pins. And yep, it took hours..



I'll be honest, after doing the top row of pins I'd probably had enough of all the cutting, tinning, crimping and checking of connections!
I only made the mistake of putting a pin in the wrong portion of the connector once thankfully - and yep, it's still ruddy annoying extracting those pins when you get it wrong!

But hey, it was well worth it in the end - one completely hot-swappable 2 player CP, and one cab loom completely ready to accept JST-connector'd panels now.
The 2nd connector is purely for the earth connection, and it's re-used from the existing Dino cab stuff:




After that I did the second MDF base panel mount for the JAMMA switching PSU, freeing up the front base of the cab for a MVS mobo.
Next up will be the service panel mod onto the lower shelf so the top one is 100% free for larger game boards.




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2017 at 2:22am
Had a bit of an experiment today, to see if I can minimise the service panel in the Dino King cabs even further. I settled on a location on the left of the cab, above the coin box.

With some chopping down of the service panel metal and drilling a few holes so fixing bolts can be attached, I can sneak it into place under the upper shelf support, attached to the side cab metalwork.
I should be able to keep both shelves free for larger game boards up top, an MVS mobo in the middle, and space at the bottom for something else like smaller PCBs or a Pi-JAMMA kit.



I have a couple of issues though... to fit the service panel here means I have to cut off the right hand side beyond the sticker & service button. This means I lop off the current support 'foot' for the panel - once done, it can never be used horizontally ever again Confused

Also does the service panel have to be electrically isolated from the cabinet metal? It was originally on an MDF shelf and has 100V+ going through it for the monitor deguass + power switches. But the panel itself is fully earthed, and was originally bolted to all manner of internal metal plating that separated the ticket dispenser area from the game boards and transformer, and was connected to the cabinet metal anyway.

Hmmm.....



-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 2:58am
Well the hot-swappable panels are now done. Seems to have taken an age to get the cab looms spliced, connectored and then do the same for the CPs. They can now be unplugged and re-connected at will for whatever game setup is required. The button colours are all a bit random for now, while I play with various theming ideas.

I now turn my attention to the 4th cab (currently with Mushi King bezel on it), which is blowing the plug fuse.. much experimentation needed to find out what it is exactly..




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: neil1637
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 7:51am
Good stuff there pal. Looking forward to seeing what you do with number 4.

Have you fathomed out the fuse issue yet?

-------------
Please visit my Arcade Diary Blog at https://neilsarcadediary.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://neilsarcadediary.wordpress.com/

Always looking for Cabaret Cabinets


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 3:08pm
Sadly not had a chance to mess with the fuse issue much. I've swapped over the mains filter box itself with another cab for now and I'm seeing if the issue moves to the other cab or not.
 
If not I have some 7amp fuses to see if it's just down to a startup surge when powering up.

Beyond that I'll have to swap out the transformer to see if that's the issue. Finally I have the option to bypass the mains filter completely. I had a quick look for replacements but there's nothing with the same values as the ones Sega used unfortunately.


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: virtvic
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 3:13pm
I had a bad filter box on my phoenix years ago that kept knocking out fuses. Swapped it out and it's been great for years.

-------------
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 3:17pm
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:

I had a bad filter box on my phoenix years ago that kept knocking out fuses. Swapped it out and it's been great for years.


I have a feeling whatever the issue is it's going to be a right old pain in arse to replace isn't it LOL


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: muddymusic
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 3:28pm
I've had 2 problems like that with the Dino's I've converted, 1 was the mains filter had gone bad and kept tripping the RCD, and the other one was from one of the longer wired power connections inside that wasn't being used anymore once I'd converted it also tripping the RCD, once I removed all the superfluous power wiring it stopped.


-------------
Repro Arcade Artwork supplier, pm me or visit arcadeartshop.com


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2017 at 12:41pm
Not done much of an update in ages. So here's just a little pic of the current lineup this afternoon.
Soak testing cab #4 with a replaced ISO transformer to see if the fuse holds:


Pang / Wonderboy / Demon Front / Daimakamura


-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door


Posted By: itruk
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2017 at 1:39pm
Looking good!   Out of interest, which joysticks do you tend to go for?  

I've got my Dino running mame and with a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT and I've set it to 4-way, but I'm finding that it has problems with the directions sometimes. 

I was wondering if it's worth spending more on a better stick.


-------------




WANTS:

Playchoice 10 Games
- please PM me :)


Posted By: Flinnster
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2017 at 11:48pm
I've got both Sanwa's and Seimitsu's on these. 
The Sanwa is a JLF like yours and the Seimitsu's are a mix of LS32's and LS55's.
Pretty much all the joysticks are refurbs from 2nd hand sticks bought on the forums.

If you are having control issues, maybe worth setting the joystick gates to 8-way before buying replacements? Depends what game you are running on emulation though I suppose.




-------------

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door



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