Hi, I'm having an issue with my Bride of Pinbot machine as of recently I started getting random resets which has now developed into a reset every time I press the start button. I managed to trace it to something to do with J115. With J115 unplugged the machine runs fine. I've tried disconnecting J120 and J121 which makes no difference. I've tested all the resistors, triacs and transistors which all seem ok. Any ideas guys?
Bride of pinbot GI reset problem
- Thread starter Be77amy
- Start date
what is J115 connected to?
You could try re flowing the header at J115 and replacing the pins on the connector for J115.
Check for solder/component issues on the cable J115 connects to under the playfield. Get hold of the manual to find out.
You could try re flowing the header at J115 and replacing the pins on the connector for J115.
Check for solder/component issues on the cable J115 connects to under the playfield. Get hold of the manual to find out.
J115 istr is the general illumination lamps.
Does J115 have any burning smells or browning? The WPC games do have issues with oxidation which causes high resistance which leads to overheating and burning, the resetting is due to the lamps drawing more current then they should (causing a voltage drop). You could try reflowing the solder and sanding the pins on J115 but I would replace it.
Try J115 plugged in and going into the test menu and go into the GI test with it off and increase the brightness with the up button, if it resets once it gets to a certain level then you can be sure it is an issue with current draw.
I had issues with resetting (on a Bride of Pinbot), once I replaced all the power connectors and plugs and chopped off the wire to reseat them the issue went away.
Most resets tend to be old connectors or shorts.
I had an issue with the knocker, found out in the dark that it was shorting out to the metal plate, some electrical tape fixed that though.
GameOn2016-11-20 12:58:59
Does J115 have any burning smells or browning? The WPC games do have issues with oxidation which causes high resistance which leads to overheating and burning, the resetting is due to the lamps drawing more current then they should (causing a voltage drop). You could try reflowing the solder and sanding the pins on J115 but I would replace it.
Try J115 plugged in and going into the test menu and go into the GI test with it off and increase the brightness with the up button, if it resets once it gets to a certain level then you can be sure it is an issue with current draw.
I had issues with resetting (on a Bride of Pinbot), once I replaced all the power connectors and plugs and chopped off the wire to reseat them the issue went away.
Most resets tend to be old connectors or shorts.
I had an issue with the knocker, found out in the dark that it was shorting out to the metal plate, some electrical tape fixed that though.
GameOn2016-11-20 12:58:59
When I first got the machine J115 was burnt up so I replaced it with the uprated black type with the crimped on pins. With j115 plugged in I get a reset just pressing the test button! So if I start the game go into test and set it to go test then plug in j115 no reset. Then run right through the test as soon as it hits the 'all illuminations' bit I get a reset. This happens with or without j120 and j121 plugged in. I've also tried removing all the pins from j115 and reconnecting each circuit in turn but the problem doesn't seem to be linked to one individual circuit.
GameOn said:
That definitely needs checking/doing if you haven't already
You are gonna need to work through the Williams power problems section of the PinWiki
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC
Right it still sounds like either a power issue or a short somewhere.
If you have tested the triacs and transistors and resisters out of
circuit and they are fine then I would look at making sure that the
voltages are fine.
With J115 off, go to test menu and make sure general adjust 25 Illumantation Dim is On. If this is off the GI will not dim.
Have you confirmed with J115 disconnected that you are getting about 6 to 7 VAC from the connector (Pin 3 and 12 will do)
Check the voltages on the board with J115 disconnected and the board on. What voltages are the TPs reading? If they seem too high or too low then test each side of J101 to make sure you are gettting 12 to 14VAC and 8.5 to 9.5VAC.
Check to make sure that BR1 and BR2 do not have any dry joints.
Check that U1 74LS374 is working as this is what drives the triacs. If this is faulty it could be shorting something. Pins 2, 19, 5, 16, 6 are the outputs and these should be on when the GI is on.
Whilst you are there replace caps C9, C4, C1, C12, C2 and C3 just to make sure the digital 5V and 12V have nice clean power.
GameOn2016-11-20 16:43:42
If you have tested the triacs and transistors and resisters out of
circuit and they are fine then I would look at making sure that the
voltages are fine.
With J115 off, go to test menu and make sure general adjust 25 Illumantation Dim is On. If this is off the GI will not dim.
Have you confirmed with J115 disconnected that you are getting about 6 to 7 VAC from the connector (Pin 3 and 12 will do)
Check the voltages on the board with J115 disconnected and the board on. What voltages are the TPs reading? If they seem too high or too low then test each side of J101 to make sure you are gettting 12 to 14VAC and 8.5 to 9.5VAC.
Check to make sure that BR1 and BR2 do not have any dry joints.
Check that U1 74LS374 is working as this is what drives the triacs. If this is faulty it could be shorting something. Pins 2, 19, 5, 16, 6 are the outputs and these should be on when the GI is on.
Whilst you are there replace caps C9, C4, C1, C12, C2 and C3 just to make sure the digital 5V and 12V have nice clean power.
GameOn2016-11-20 16:43:42
Dim is set to on in the settings. With J115 disconnected I get 7.95Vac across 3-12 and connected I get 7.42. TP voltages are, TP1 12.75v TP2 4.99 TP3 11.83. J101 1-2 9.5v 4-6 14.2. U1 I'm getting 5.7k on all pairs except two which read 7M ohm. Not really sure what I was expecting from this chip though? I'll do some further testing on u1 next then pull the board to check br1 and 2. Replacing the caps may take longer depending on what I have lying around
Looks like it might have been one of those issues that only shows up under load. Took the board out and tested everything on j115 for continuity and shorts then decided to reflow the joints just for fun and it seems to have sorted the issue! Or over disturbed something by removing and replacing the board :-s. Only remaining issues seems to be the lack of ability to dim the gi. Is u1 responsible for the dimming?
Just incase anyone finds this post and has a similar problem I found the issue. Turns out br2 was at fault. One of the diodes measured open circuit. Went down this route after looking at the zero cross tp with a scope and finding the wave form too symmetrical when compared to a picture of a good one. Shoot the new part in and it's spot on