Recommend a Circular saw for cutting straight worktop and plinths

[Venom]

I am pretty sure we have some carpenters and builders in this forum


Just going to refurb the kitchen with new doors/plynths and a worktop for utilty room. Already had main worktops in kitchen replaced by a professional.

All the plinths I am having to make from cutting a larder panel down. Long Story but the gap from floor to bottom of cupboards is more than the standard 15cm plinths. My fault when did kitchen originally the plyths were higher than the normal 15mm!!

Its ok found an end lanel which is 2.4 meteres so wil be able to make two 2.4m plinths from it !!

Last time i fitted my kitchen when was doing the whole house up and had sod all money I did it all by handsaw and jigsaw, which was time consuming !

I want to refresh the kitchen and happy to get a circular saw but finding it all a bit confusing.
I dont currently own a circular saw so thought would reach out for advise

I was considering buying a track saw bundle

Evolution Bundle

That seemed fine for cutting my plynth lenghhs and producing a neat straight line. But the more I read o internet they recommend a 60T saw and a evoution dont do a 210mm 60T and they seem to have their unique bore hole size which is not compatible with other blades

The plinths you dont really see under the cabinets but would like a neat finish on my utilty room worktop.

I am pretty sure we have some carpenters and builders in this forum.

Can you recommend a circular saw which could be used for plinths and worktops that I wont have hassle getting blades for.

I dont mind spending a upto about £200/250 as I dont own a circular saw and is a lot cheaper than me paying somone to fit kitchen.

I dont mind wired as would a cordless be powerfull enough for 38mm laminate etc Do i need a 210 235 ??

Really want to get a saw that will do this job but also do general cutting 2x4 etc appreciate will need different blades.

Also and excuse my thickness I also need to MITRE the cornice and plinth on top of cabinets. For that should I buy a seperate mitre circ saw or if I get the right one can I buy an accesory to put it in ?

Never had a circular saw and effectively I have two main jobs worktop/plyths and mitre. Oh and will need to cut hole in worktop for the sink.


Any help appreciated . I think the evolution would of been ideal if they would have done a 60T blade, but would of then have to have bought a mitre saw. mitring using a block and saw is a bit crap when I do it

Any guidance really appreacite.

 

[RygarR]

I'm not a carpenter, or a kitchen fitter. But in my experience, using circular saws to get a cut that is both straight and plumb over a long stretch is very difficult. Doesn't matter if you clamp a guide plank and run it along that. There's always a wobble.

If you were working with wood, you could always cut oversize then plane it down to the line. Doubt that would work with laminate, though.

If I had to cut worktops again, I'd buy a plunge saw and a track.

For joining the worktop on corners, you'll need a router with a suitable bit, and a 'mitring' template. You could also use the router to scribe the back of the worktop if necessary, so it follows any wobbles on your walls.

To join it up, you'll need some suitable sealant, as well as a forsner bit for your drill, a hand saw or small circular saw, and a sharp chisel to fit the tightening bolts underneath the worktop.

For the pelmet and valance bits above and below wall cabinets, you'd need a mitre saw.

Buying all the bits could end up costing several hundred quid.

Fitting the worktop and cutting the plinths isn't a big job for someone who knows what they're doing. Depending on how big your kitchen is, it might only take a morning. It would probably be cheaper, easier and neater to pay a chippie to do it for you... If you can find one!

 

[Venom]

Yes luckily for me no joining of worktop joints and yes it's finding someone is the pain! . Yes the plunge saw and track is still of interest would not mind the one of posted if I could find a 60t saw for it

 

[RygarR]

Yes luckily for me no joining of worktop joints and yes it's finding someone is the pain! . Yes the plunge saw and track is still of interest would not mind the one of posted if I could find a 60t saw for it

If you're gonna invest in new power tool, you can't go far wrong with a sliding compound mitre saw. Unless you're a pro, the Parkside ones from Lidl are as good as you realistically need. You can use it to cut mitre joints, chop timber, and freestyle to your heart's content. For these and any other saws, you can buy 3rd party blades with as many teeth as you require for cheapz on eBay.

 

[Mr20to5]

For the worktop cuts, I would say the blade with that pack you have linked will end up with a load of tear outs, as the blade is only 16T. 60T as you suggest is where you want to be ideally.

But that package is very good value for money. I have no experience with that brand. They do do a 40T blade which they call their fine wood blade, but again I have actual experience with this, but it gets decent reviews with some mentioning worktop cuts.

Festool is the dogs, but it is expensive.

Using the track/rail system if secured properly, and you do not force the saw, taking your time, your cut should be straight, but if you over ask of the saw/blade, then the line will stray, no matter how much you spend.

To reduce the strain, if you think it might be a problem, then you can cut first, close to the end line, taking of the majority of the unwanted, then a second finish cut where you just take off the last few mm, reducing the stress/heat on the blade.

A good (large) router, with a flush cutting bit, and a worktop jig, is a must if jointing worktops together.

Good luck.

 

[Venom]

Cheers . Looks like can get bore hole convertors so may well get a bumdle but buy a different branded saw

 

[cools]

A friend of mine who's a professional carpenter and joiner swears by his Evolution circulars. They don't last as long as fancier brands but they're cheap enough he just buys a new one whenever it breaks.

Uses other manufacturers depending on the tool. No loyalty.

 

[UnclearHermit]

Check Peter Millard on YouTube, he's done some comparisons on plunge saws. If you do go for Evolution then make sure you get v2 of the track, which has a much better method for joining two pieces. Link