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Titch's Neo Berry 29

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    Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 8:43pm
Thought I would start a log of my latest project on here.

Firstly I would like to say thanks to Flinnster and muddymusic for their dino king threads which were a great source of info and inspiration for my own.

So on we go! 
Last weekend me and my wife took a trip over to Bedfordshire to meet Bonehead and pick up 3 dino king cabs. After a short chat with bonehead (who seems a top bloke from our short encounter, hopfully catch up at a future meet!) we loaded all 3 dino in the back of my mother in laws VW caddy.

Perfect size!



They are not all mine btw, Only the orange Dino and L&B are mine...
So after getting them home and unloaded I gutted the L&B cab ready for me to start my creation.

I intend on building a homage to the Super Neo Geo 29 candy cab, Basicly making a really small cabaret type one :)

So gutted cab....



Now with a empty canvas the fun can commence!
I got a MV-1F courtesy of Paulie on here so after soldering in a new CR2032 battery holder and putting in a new battery she was ready to go!



I determined that the board would fit perfectly on the larger of the 2 internal shelves if I removed the service panel from it.

I did consider moving it to the smaller shelf underneath as others have done but I thought it would be good to use the hatch on it to cover the PSU for easy adjustments and the PSU would not fit on the lower shelf so I decided to improvise a little.

So I modified the service panel to fit on the lower shelf but swapped the shelves so it stayed on the top.



As the larger shelf is deeper than the smaller one it would not fit in the lower runners so rather than bending or cutting the stopper off the end of the runner I decided to cut a strip off either side of the larger board so it would fit in the runner but allow it to go further forward.

So it looks like this now...



Now it was time to get down to my favorite part.... The wiring!

This is the first time I have ever wired a full Jamma loom so it involved a little learning for me but I think it went pretty well.

I wired the 2 player controls into the 21 way JST YLR-21V connector block, I also wired the RGB and sync lines into a 6 way JST YLR-06V, the Coin door into a YLR-08V and the speaker into a YLR-02V.
I also did a 6 way connector for the Coin mech.
The test and service switches are just wired straight to QD's on the back of the switches as normal.

Another thank you to Qjuk for his very useful wiring diagram for the coin mech/coin counter wiring.








So at this point its time to see if it all works.....

So after some final checks I plugged it in and turned it on and...
Pop....

Unhappy

This obviously filled me with dread for a few moments that I had bodged something but after bringing myself to my senses I decided to test the fuse in the IEC lead.
Sure enough it had blown the 3A fuse in it presumably from the inrush current on the iso tranny.
Atleast that was my hope!

So second time lucky and upon turning it on the board fires up and I am greeted by that glorious sound of the neo geo start up music! :D

Flick the monitor on/off switch inside and I am greeted with this:


Thumbs Up

Feeling relived and exonerated I test the Service/Test and Coin inputs.

The service button works as expected, The test and coin inputs however are not working!
The test switch was a easy fix, I wired it to the "mvs test" input of the harness having read they use a different one to Jamma, This turned out to be false so after changing it to the normal Jamma one that worked great.

The coin door circuit was a little more work.

So the first thing I noticed was my door light was not on, I dont know if its blown or not as I forgot to look before I gutted it so I took the connector off and tested it to find a rather meager 3 volts floating.
This made me think I had lost a ground somewhere so I started double checking connectors and when I removed the coin counter tray I found my main ground from the Jamma edge had been broken off!
Quick diagnosis love it!

So after fashioning a tool out of a feeler guage (thanks for that idea Franco!) I removed the broken pin from the JST and re-terminated it.

This I am happy to say fixed my problem with the exception of the coin door light which is obviously blown....
Sadly it appears the one in my second cab is also DOA so I need to get some new ones, Anyone know what these little wedge type lamps are??
I would like to change them for LED ones if possible.

So with all wiring in place and working (well except the CP harness as I have no CP yet to wire up (Waiting on Vic to get some blanks ready) I decide to turn my attention to the cab itself.

So first thing I wanted to do is make it safer so I made a guard panel out of polycarb scrap I got from work so you cant get to the mains or iso transformer from the front of the machine without removing it.


I then went about giving it a good clean inside and out to get rid of the dust and brown gunky stuff that was everywhere! No idea what it all was but it was pretty minging in places.
I also stripped the artwork and covered the old card dispenser slot with vinyl to match the cab better.


Well i should now apologize for this long post as I have crammed 5 days of stuff into a single post lol.

My next tasks are to fit new locks as they have all been drilled out which Is a shame as I found an original Sega key buried under the coin counter tray but I will keep that as a little momento.
They should be here tomorrow and then after that my next big job is tidying up the bezel plastic but I am not 100% what I am going to do with that as I need to repair some cracks and fill some scrapes etc.

After that it will be artwork but that will have to wait until I have some spare money.... So could be a while LOL

If you made it this far thanks for reading :) 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 8:50pm
Fantastic work Clap

Very much looking forward to your next update.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Retroman839 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 8:51pm
cool   
nice little cabs
nice little project
you got three in one go buy the looks of it!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 12:26am
For the coin bulbs, all mine run on 12V LED type which are cheap from china, but will take a while to arrive. I got them from ebay.

Guard panels aren't really needed, honestly. You'll likely end up removing the one in front of the switcher as when you do need to tweak you'll just want to get in there quickly and it's protected from 'users' by the front door anyway.

You may also find that it's easier to orient the MVS mobo the other way too, so you can swap carts by simply opening the front door and not having to mess with the shelf or go round the back all the time.

I personally have them sat vertically at the front on the shelf that the ticket dispensers were on.
That way the carts are really easy to slot in and out as they are right in front of the door when it opens. I only open the back of the cabs to mess with wiring or deal with monitors.

I'm soon going to be replacing the radial locks on my cabinets with actual Sega ones that I got from Mo at Videotronics. These have the pre-cut tangs I modified specifically for the Dino Kings, so would be a straight drop-in to yours if you need locks.

Also you definitely want to remove that security bar - it just gets in the way and damages things as it swings about! Wink




Edited by Flinnster - 12 Jul 2019 at 12:32am


WTD: Outrun DLX cab, Rolling Thunder pcb
Parts WTD: Dino King Door, Coin Box, Coin Chute
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 6:51am
Cheers Guys,

Thanks for that link fin just what I was after!

As for the guarding and board orientation I dont intend on changing the board on this one or the cart very often.
It will probably have krout buster in 24/7 once I get it lol

Have you ordered a bulk load of the locks then?
May be interested in a few :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 9:55am
Today I started on what I think is the hardest part of this job.

The bezel plastic!

Both bezels have cracks, one worse than the other but both in the same places which leads me to believe it is their weak spot.

So I want to reinforce them to prevent it getting any worse as these will be impossible to replace. (Unless people become interested in a bulk order!)

The not so bad one I think I may be able to get away keeping it original yellowing en all.
But the other will allmost certainly need painting or coating.

So first thing I did was the “easy” fix.
I coated all the cracks with superglue.
Now I dont trust this and I dont expect it to really hold it together but its something.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 9:57am
Dupe post please delete.

Edited by Titchgamer - 13 Jul 2019 at 10:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 10:03am
Sorry having trouble with the pictures and post editor!!

So one more....


So Next I started thinking how I was going to reinforce the plastic without resorting to fibreglass or filling the bezel with something.
So after a little googling I found this plastic repair patch stuff.



Unexciting no?

Basically the idea is to heat it up with a hot air gun then once its soft peel the back off the adhesive and mould it to the plastic. It does not fill the cracks but it sets hard and is strong so I am hoping it adheres to the plastic underneath ok.



Well heres hoping but time will tell I guess.

That is all for now though.

Oh and I fitted the locks :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 10:35pm
Interesting fix on the cracks.

I have something quite similar where one of the monitor bolt screw points was punched completely out of the rear. I have replaced it with a new threaded insert and the bezel is bolted on with a long bolt and washer/nut arrangement on the rear.
I've not done my hairline crack repairs yet, but the plan really was to tape them tightly together and apply a load of fibreglass and epoxy to the rear / inside of the plastic where it's not seen.
This is a pretty tried-and-tested method for all candy cab crack repairs - it's seen a lot on Naomi, Astro City, and Blast City control panels.

I've seen 'Milliput Fine White' used to fill in cracks from the outside, if not completely repainting over the area.


WTD: Outrun DLX cab, Rolling Thunder pcb
Parts WTD: Dino King Door, Coin Box, Coin Chute
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 10:57pm
Thanks for the tip about the milliput Flinnster! I will pick some of that up!
I didn't want to go the fibreglass route as I always found it to be very messy and generally unpleasant in general so wanted to avoid it if possible.

I am going to try a little experiment tomorrow with the worse of the 2 by seeing if I can vinyl wrap it, I have loads of black left over from when we did the A51 cab so I thought if I can do a good enough job of it I will order some nice white stuff and not have to have the yellowed plastic or risk degrading it with retrobright etc.

Just need to mix up some isopon first and fill the gouges in down the side of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 6:39pm
Very interesting, I've never heard of the plastic repair patch, looks a bit like what used to repair bike inter tubes. Please post your thoughts on this.

Yes, deffo remove the locking hasp on the front, I used control panel bolts to plug the holes but that's just because I had tons of them left over.

Loving seeing how much you've managed to get done in such a short time Clap

It made me smile scrolling through your post... I took the MVS mobo out of one of my Dino Kings and it was running Puzzle Bobble, sent it to you and it's back in a Dino King running Puzzle Bobble... home from home Smile

I've lived with my 4 Dino Kings for some time now and was thinking of having a little rejig of the internals to free up the second shelf. Just thought I'd mention it.

One of my cabs


and I was thinking of putting the original card dispenser MDF base board back in and bringing the service panel down and mounting it on there and bringing the PSU forward and mounting it next to that. That's exactly how it is laid out in my SNK Neo Geo SC19-4 cabinet.

Inside the front of my SNK Neo Geo SC19-4





Edited by paulie - 14 Jul 2019 at 6:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titchgamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 6:58pm
Cheers Paulie!

Both me and the Wife love Puzz bob! :D

But regarding the internal layout I think thats what makes these cabs so versatile you can move things about relatively easily and make them how you see fit.

As for the patches yes I guess it is a bit like a inner tube patch but the patch itself is much thicker and hardened plastic so once its set in place it will not move atleast that is my hope haha.

I gave the vinyl wrapping a little go today and I think its doable but will need a second pair of hands as due to the angles etc involved its very fiddly and it was sticking to everything except what I wanted it to!

So I am going to have round 2 with that next weekend hopfully with the wife to assist, Shes remarkably good at that kind of thing!!

In the mean time its going to sit in the corner of my living room tormenting me that I want to do something with it but nothing to be done until I get some CP's and artwork for it or a extra pair of hands so progress will now be slowing down considerably.


 
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