Various dead Machines - help!

[Rat Mullet]

Hi guys,

Looking for some help with the following as, unfortunately, I really don't know where to start.

Suspected power surge or similar has knocked out 7 of my machines. I was getting electrical work done and I believe something has cropped from there. They were alll working until this.

Used a voltage pen as my expertise does not go much further than this and for most, the power stops when it enters he machine. I have changed the fuses in all the plugs.

Here are the casualties:

Point Blank - Changed fuse in plug. I have light on marquee and monitor working but blue. Suspect an issue with game board but unsure if there are other fuses to check. There is a 3A glass fuse inside it which seems fine.

Big Buck Hunter - Changed fuse in plug. Didn't come on. Changed internal glass fuse at cable inlet at back. The machine now comes on, the fan and marquee come on. No picture on screen and Dell PC inside has no lights on.

Ridge Racer - Can't get power on. Have seen there are two fuses inside near coin door, one has definitely blown and have ordered this.

House of the Dead - Can't get power on

Crazy Taxi - Can't get power on

18 Wheeler - Can't get power on

Supreme Video jamma cab (SF2 board) - Can't get power on

Posting in the hope this has potentially happened to somewhere else or even to give me a starting point on what to do.

Machines are based in the Edinburgh area. If anyone local or further afield is able to diagnose and/or fix, will gladly pay. I'm struggling of find anyone.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[gunblade]

get a multimeter and read the power supply outputs on each machine, sounds like fuses in your supplies probably blew as well - question has to be what the hell did your electrician do

 

[yoganuggy]

oh my word what a nightmare. Sorry to hear that

there was a guy in oz that had a lightning strike take out many of his machines. Power switches in the off position were useless. Only those machines that were physically unplugged survived.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS66g4TltFc

I wouldn't connect anything up to that circuit until the reason for this was found out. Is the electrician still working there to help?

A tip for everyone is to unplug the machines when not in use.

 

[bones]

As per gunblade. Got to make sure the 240v is getting to the power supplies first and see if anythings coming out for starters. The switch mode PSUs do have an internal fuse.
Hoping it is just something simple like this.
Used to get problems with fire alarm installations in new builds where the electrician's would conduct a mega test on adjacent circuits but this could actually wipe out the main fire alarm panel even though it was on a different breaker completely so hoping your situation is not a result of this.

 

[RaveN]

Well it shouldn't be any of the normal fuses that protect the game/monitor from excessive current. They've probably done something stupid by shorting wires in that ring main and blowing your emi/rfi capacitors/blocks. It'll be the plastic blocks where the power comes into the cab, or the parallel caps across the power lines going into PSUs

 

[DaveR]

there was a guy in Melbourne, Last Gamer on YouTube, had a massive arcade collection and then got struct by Lightning , not sure if protection insurance paid out...

basically he arcade is dead

now selling and moving on

 

[69er]

It is very sad that breakdowns occur but clearly if all your games are affected then sounds like some sort of power surge ( this is the reason anti surge plugs are available for computer networks etc and we use them on all digital pub jukeboxes)

I have said this many times - you need to buy a multimeter (doesn’t need to be expensive one but easy to understand it’s operation and turn it off when not in use as so many people leave them on resistance ranges and batteries quickly die)

Read how it works and take care with electric AS IT IS INVISIBLE AND DANGEROUS so test what you can with your machine unplugged … select continuity on a meter and test fuses … try a new fuse to see the meter response … and know what to expect when testing . If you can’t always get to the fuse check the whole lead travel from plug to transformers / psu inputs as often there is a fuse in the euro socket / mains filter where power enters the cabinet . Obviously where you have lights or monitors ok then this can be assumed working but just explaining for all readers no matter how far in the fault is.. often the wires pull out of the mains plug due to sloppy screws or loose cable clamps in the plug .. basic fault but often overlooked

Jumping forward to your faults…. Seems the psu could be blown if other parts are on and ok
Set your meter to around 20 vdc range volts dc is the symbol of a line above a dotted line on most meters and covers lowers voltages (the wavy line range is ac and used for unrectified alternating current as at the wall socket or at isolating transformers)

Test a battery say 1.5 v from a torch or similar and putting red lead to + and black to - or other end watch how the meter responds and you understand the voltage it is measuring this is important

Taking care with power on chech outputs from psus locate the 0v or ground often black wires and measure voltages black lead to 0v black wires and one at a time probe using the red meter lead to the red wires often where 5volts dc is expected and also any orange or yellow wires where 12 v for coin mechs and sound is expected and perhaps -5v which may be affected

If any voltage especially the +5v dc is not there the fault is inside the psu and frequently not easy to service as repairs are dearer than replacing the whole unit with a similar ampage replacement they range 10 A - 25A for example and many games need a 16 to 25 Amp output model and cost only about £25 varies tho on type switch mode power supply

That’s your “starters” advice but do try find a friend hobbyist who has done this before and have them show you the practical use of a multimeter .. I am sure there’s a few guys in your area who might come round for petrol money and a pint and be willing to help… IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT OR JUST UNSURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING THEN BE CAREFUL AS ELECTRIC DOES REACT QUICKLY AND YOU COULD MAKE THINGS WORSE

Hope that helps .. does sound nightmare occurrence Get an anti surge lead too perhaps?

 

[Retroman839]

Crazy taxi /18 wheeler

You could try a good known power supply

Swap in a good Naomi power supply.
If it works then you know you got a bad one ..

You could as has been said already
Check with multi meter for 240v after the emi/efi.
Just had one go bad on my washing machine.

Poss the worked touched Live to neutral short at the main board..

If anyone gets work done unplug your cabs!

My Nan and gramps had British Gas out to do the electrics.
The main board was arching sparking after they had finished.
Could have burned the house down…

Took 2 days for British Gas to send another guy
During Covid we had no power for 2 days.

You need to have words with the electrician

If you have Switch mode arcade power supplies in you
Other cabs they normally have a fuse inside the case.
You will need to take the case off to change it.

Retroman8392022-08-13 08:40:40

 

[Phils Arcade]

Here's a decent video on YouTube that might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYr_PRG61ZM

 

[John Bennett]

Is this a home, or a commercial premises? I’m wondering if there’s any chance the sparky could have put 415V from a 3-phase junction box onto a 240V ring main.
Can you claim against them if it turns out they’ve done something along those lines?

So were the games on and running while they were working on the wiring?John Bennett2022-08-15 14:12:13