CRT Vs Retrotink 4k

big10p

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Plasterboard so not ideal with the weight. I think the Magnus labs one would work but reluctant to spend £300 on an arm
Should be ok if you screw into the stud battens. You can get stud finders, but they can be a bit hit and miss (literally). I have a wall mount arm for the TV in my games room. I got one with mounting holes all long the top and bottom of the fixing plate, so it could be fixed to the studs. I also got my builder to install it, which helped. 😆
 

Vorbis

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You've gotta start small and see if you like it. Crt's are large and prone to failure. Playing original games on original hardware on a crt is fun as hell. But expensive and requires plenty of maintenance. If you're wanting to try a crt, I'd recommend getting a B&O, maybe an MX4000. Not too big, look nice enough in a room, have great in built speakers and sound and have a decent picture that's pretty arcade like. Get your favourite console and start playing. If you really like it, you can look into a bigger TV or a PVM / BVM, more consoles - whatever.
I'd echo what others have said on the high end stuff. It's good, really good. But not very authentic. If you can't cope with consumer geometry and convergence or bad linearity, but you're really enjoying the crt, then look into them.
If you don't like fiddling with settings etc then the mister / retro tink combo - as good as it is - will never make you happy.
I'm old enough to have more experience looking at CRT than I have flat screens, plus I do have one in the Space Ace next to my desk just not sure one for retro computing is worth the hassle of trying to find a workable space for it if a retrotink and oled could get me most of the way to a similar look and smooth movement (plus whenever I turn the Space Ace on I can feel a for sale advert for a non working arcade coming on)
 

Vorbis

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Should be ok if you screw into the stud battens. You can get stud finders, but they can be a bit hit and miss (literally). I have a wall mount arm for the TV in my games room. I got one with mounting holes all long the top and bottom of the fixing plate, so it could be fixed to the studs. I also got my builder to install it, which helped. 😆
I used a stud finder when I drilled into the cable 🤣
 

Max...

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You need these... :LOL:

71-Hj-Mlnut-DL-AC-SY879.jpg
 

adammoogle

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I'm old enough to have more experience looking at CRT than I have flat screens, plus I do have one in the Space Ace next to my desk just not sure one for retro computing is worth the hassle of trying to find a workable space for it if a retrotink and oled could get me most of the way to a similar look and smooth movement (plus whenever I turn the Space Ace on I can feel a for sale advert for a non working arcade coming on)
Nothing comes close to a CRT for motion clarity IMO. The retrotink and a good OLED are a good option if you don't have space. As good as Oleds get, it's still sample and hold technology so there is blurring - mitigated by the black frame insertion trick which sacrifices brightness for greater clarity. None of the options are perfect! Playing old games with the crt filters enabled on a 50inch + OLED is impactful!
 

SquidDude

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It's worth noting that BFI and other methods to improve motion clarity also add input lag, so if you want the best motion clarity + input lag, CRT will probably always be the way to go.
Since BFI needs to output at a higher refresh rate than the source, it'll have to buffer a part of the input frame so that it can scan everything out at once. This starts off at 50% of the source's frametime with standard 1 frame video, 1 frame black BFI (so 8ms of added lag for 60Hz), and tends towards a full frame of lag as you add more black frames.
Personally though, 90% of the time I just play through my retrotink (with no BFI), CRTs are nice but they're a bit of a faff compared to just turning on an upscaler and playing, I usually only turn mine on if I know I'm going to play for a while when going for a good score or whatever.
 
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