Interest check: Mitsurugi-w's Sega JVS I/O Helper

Mitsurugi-w

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Vamino said:
Mitsurugi-w said:
Vamino said:
Interesting PCB.

I don't suppose you know if you can get force feedback to work as well do you?

Thanks.

You mean with home controls? Or adapt an existing cab's FFB to work with other games?

Yeah, using home controls. For example, a serial wheel which has been converted and can simply plug into your helper PCB and then uses the Naomi i/o and ffb board.

Or am I looking at a way that's too complicated?

Thanks.

Well this pcb only helps with inputs. FFB is handled by the output connector of the I/O. Maybe in the future I can develop an output helper pcb. It would be VERY helpful for people wanting to convert Deluxe cabs.

Has anyone out there developed a way to use rumble-supporting home controls with arcade games yet? If anyone has some info maybe I can use it in the future.
 

silverfox0786

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Mitsurugi-w said:
silverfox0786 said:
That great Jeremy

btw your 60 pin I/O port does it have full jumpers for doing a complete pin swap if needed

I just found that the FCA PCB I/O used propriety pinouts for each game and is not only a set standard but is not pinout compatible with the SEGA I/O

Well this one is made specifically for Sega JVS I/Os.  Do you have a pinout of the FCA I/O?  My pcb allows you to remap up, down, left, right, and 7 buttons per layer.  Also each player has two auxiliary slots you can remap on the DB25 to whatever you want.  You can also remap the 8 analog controls. (4 for each player)

You can't remap coin, start, service, etc as those were standard for all games.  Worst case scenario small adapter pcbs could be made to adapt other I/Os if not a whole new pcb that supports different ones.  Currently the  only I/Os in my possession are Sega JVS I/Os.

I think another PCB would be needed as it has no set standard and each game maps to different pinouts so a pinout table is almost pointless

the game I want it for personally is the Triforce Mario GP and for that I have pinouts and the board (In fact its all in the Mario GP Manual) although from what I understand I think that Mario GP can use the standard SEGA I/O and your board anyway.

let me look into pinouts for the FCA and get back to you
 

silverfox0786

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ok so I looked at the FCA I/O and apparently the controls are mapped via a PIC chip and they cant be interchanged as not only the Triforce uses it but so does the Namco System Super 23 and the 2 cant be interchanged.

so I mapped out the Friforce pinouts as they are the most relevant to this project

Note the pinouts go A1-A30 top line and B1-B30 bottom line
not the same as Sega I/O which is 1-60 odds at the top line and evens at the bottom line.

Triforce.png
silverfox07862014-11-02 22:11:54
 

silverfox0786

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My Wheel arrived today and I have a 15 pin game port flight stick on its way

will get some pics of inside later

I happened to find this post by darksoft on another forum

"This is the pinout I use (central cable of 5K pot):
Wheel to pin 3 of CN6 socket
GAS to pin 9 of CN6 socket
BRAKE to pin 15 of CN6 socket

GND to pin 5 of CN6 socket
5V to pin 1 of CN6 socket "

I assume that's for the 26 pin AD0 AD1 and AD2
 

Mitsurugi-w

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silverfox0786 said:
My Wheel arrived today and I have a 15 pin game port flight stick on its way

will get some pics of inside later

I happened to find this post by darksoft on another forum

"This is the pinout I use (central cable of 5K pot):
Wheel to pin 3 of CN6 socket
GAS to pin 9 of CN6 socket
BRAKE to pin 15 of CN6 socket

GND to pin 5 of CN6 socket
5V to pin 1 of CN6 socket "

I assume that's for the 26 pin AD0 AD1 and AD2

Did you happen to pick up a DB25 male solder cup connector? Since you want to use my PCB you don't really need to worry about the CN6 pin numbers. Just look at my Walsdawg pinout sheet posted on the first page.

As you said, the wheel will go to the pin that corresponds to AD0, Gas to AD1, and Brake to AD2. The connector has two 5v and two GND pins available. You COULD use just one ground and daisy chain it all around inside the wheel for both buttons and analog pots. It will work fine. I prefer to use one ground pin for analog and one pin for digital buttons. 5v ONLY goes to the analog devices. Don't want to fry anything.

As I said before, just make sure when you wire up the pots that you put GND to the same pin on every pot and the 5v to the same pin on every pot. Wiring up the pots is the easy part. Determining how to isolate and wire the buttons can be the difficult part.
 

silverfox0786

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I ordered a 25 wire cable so I can do the 25 pin wire loom as per your pinouts and then yes all will be the same as yours

I ran out of old printer cable hehe

and I have the DB25 just grabbed em from Maplins
 

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ok I decided to strip down the wheel and so far it was easy looking

all pots are still in place and easy enough to do them without disruption

the start and exit again pretty straight forward, I left the wires in and will use them

the board itself this is what I determined

the points are fro the buttons and the OVCC marked points on either side I can use any one of those for GND point

what you think?

Wheel.jpg
 

Mitsurugi-w

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I sent an email since I can't reply here when I am at work but I will post some of it here now for others that may want to mod this wheel.

In order for those four buttons on the pcb to work you will need to seperate the pads from the existing circuit. You can solder the wire for each button in the convenient holes that are on the pcb as shown in the picture. But then you must cut a trace from each button pad to isolate it. Look in the picture below:

1rurdd.jpg


I'm pretty sure I had to cut the one trace on the other side of the pcb. If you don't cut the trace then the buttons just wont respond.
 

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I will get a pic of the other side for you once I get a chance

I also brought a flight stick but now im thinking I went a little OTT with it and don't understand how I can make all the buttons work on it

logitech wingman extreme digital 3d

L23-6172-callout1.jpg
 

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Is that a USB version? I have one of those but I haven't opened it up to look around. Make sure it has pots in it first. If it doesn't then you might as well put it back together and sell it. I hope it does since I have one here. lol

Let me know.
 

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Hey guys. I'm literally only waiting on a few small parts to arrive but I can do 96% of assembly now so I can begin taking orders. There will be an official for-sale thread next week probably but I will take orders now and begin assembly since they will all be soldered by hand and it take some time for each one.

After compiling the parts list and costs the official price comes in at $75 shipped. Priority mail in the USA and First Class everywhere else. It includes the analog and digital ribbon cables to connect to your I/O. Please specify which version I/O you have so I send the correct cable.

By the way guys, you guys are gonna like how sexy the final version looks.
 
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