Gradius IV & restoring John Bud’s Konami Windy 2 cabinet

Dickibow

Newbie
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
82CR
I’ve been thinking about whether or not to write a thread but in the end decided I would do one big post rather than piecemeal updates. Sooooo, if you’re bored, or find yourself at a loose end, grab a drink, and be prepared to read, because this is a big one!

Impulse buying in Tokyo:
It was April 2024, and without realising it, I fell down into the rabbit hole after impulse buying an arcade game in Japan. I was over there on a work trip and was meeting a colleague for lunch. I arrived in Ueno so early because of fear of getting lost on the trains but I arrived in plenty of time and figured I would have a browse of some shops on the way. I walked into an old computer shop, which had it been in the UK, would probably have had old Spectrums, Amstrads and Amigas, but being Japanese had computers that I had never seen before. Over in the corner of the shop was a large glass cabinet with what looked like PCBs inside. I walked over curious as to what they were and sure enough, they were all arcade games. One grabbed my eye in particular, it was a large silver box wrapped in pink anti-static bubble wrap with an operator’s manual and marquee art sheet attached to it. The artwork had a spaceship on the front, which I recognised to be the Vic Viper. The game was Gradius IV. I absolutely love this game. I discovered it on the PS2 initially, and realised that I had to get the real arcade version! I had my passport with me so I was able to take advantage of the tax-free price as a foreigner. No sooner had I walked in, I was now leaving with a massive PC sized box under my arm, and I was in central Tokyo looking for the restaurant to meet my co-worker at! I definitely got some strange looks, but even more so when I was carrying it through Haneda airport guarding it with my life.

Gradius IV Hornet....just sat there in the corner of a computer shop in Tokyo....the start of my arcade adventure was about to begin:


JAMMA and JVS?
Roll forward a few weeks and my Supergun. v2.0 from Ali Express arrived and I was able to finally hook the real arcade game to my CRT and bash away on a Sega Saturn control pad. The game play and music was great but I was a bit underwhelmed by the small size of the screen image and the blockiness of the graphics. It turns out, that I was running the game over Jamma at 15kHz, and optimum resolution according to the manual was 24kHz. I changed the dip switch on the game but my Sony Trinitron didn’t support that type of horizontal frequency. I thought about trying to find a compatible CRT to play the game on (which is no easy feat), and then it hit me…….what if I put the arcade game into an actual arcade cabinet! What an excellent idea! But the game wasn’t released in the UK so how would I find a cabinet for it? The game was released in a Konami Windy 2 cabinet. I didn’t even know what that was, let alone what JVS meant!

Hunting for a Windy 2:
I joined this forum to do some research and after a while I put a wanted post out for a Konami Windy 2. I got a reply from a very helpful chap called John Bud, and he had one of these cabinets in storage. He said it was mine if I wanted it and it had actually been for sale for some time already. There were some downsides though, the monitor chassis was missing and the cabinet was pretty battered. John didn’t know if there was anything else incomplete or missing, but was very helpful answering my questions. A deal was done and the cabinet was due to be collected by a shipping company at the end of October 2024.

It looked mostly complete, except for a potentially missing front door:


The rear looked good, a few missing screws and the absence of the original topper:


A few marks down the side from its life as a working machine I suspect:


Definitely its worse side! Deep scratches and damaged artwork, but nothing too disastrous:


Unfortunately, the day of collection couldn’t go ahead as John had to go to hospital due to a recent chest infection. I didn’t realise how ill John was at the time, but we had agreed that once he was out again, we’d get the machine collected again. Sadly, John passed away a few weeks later. We had been keeping in touch with each other right up to the end until my texts suddenly went unanswered :-(

John’s wife, Roz, and their friend Alistair helped me re-arrange for a new collection in the New Year and in February 2025 the arcade machine was finally delivered!

Safely into the garage and most of the wrapping still intact. Looks like the game access hatch was included after all:


For about a month or so afterwards, every time I went to the garage this old arcade machine was looking back at me. I literally had no idea what to do with it or where to start! I love DIY and I do basic mechanical work on my cars so one weekend in March, I decided to see if I could get this thing to work. How hard could it be? I knew I needed a monitor chassis so I set out trying to find something compatible for the 29” Toshiba A68KZN696X monitor. In the meantime, let’s see if I can at least get a video output from the cabinet by using an external screen…

Where to start.....:


First thing I did was to remove the power supply. There was no way I wanted to plug that old thing into my fancy new game. Luckily, the Gradius IV operator’s manual had very helpful wiring diagrams at the back. It also said what voltages the game needed. I was looking for 3.3v, 5v and 12v. The 3.3v isn’t actually used on this particular game but I could at least check for it. Sure enough, the power supply was working great. It took 240v in from the main, passed it through a noise filter and then into a step-down isolation transformer, which then entered the power supply and gave me the respective voltages on the JVS pins.

I hooked up an LCD screen via an OSSC with HDMI to see if anything would be displayed when connected. I changed the dip switches on the Hornet (Gradius IV uses this type of game box) and plugged everything in. I got a picture on the screen saying “JVS not found” and “RTC checksum error. Reset to all factory settings.” Obviously I had no idea what that meant, but because no controls were working, or the coin mechanism, I assumed that the control panel circuit board (I/O board) wasn’t hooked up correctly. I changed the position of the USB cables in the rear of the cabinet whilst testing the joystick and sure enough, I was able to start entering the date. The control panel’s action buttons weren’t working though as they were wired up incorrectly. Once the buttons were correctly wired up I tried again, I set the time and date, and then the game booted up. I even had sound, and the coin slot would send a credit to the game if I moved the small lever where the coin would drop through! Woohoo! I had the basis of a working game and cabinet!

JVS Cabinet check passed:


I decided to try and get some coins to work. The cabinet says 100Y so I grabbed some spare Japanese coins from my holiday pouch and shoved them in! They didn’t work and got rejected. Bummer…..I tried a 10p, rejected. A quarter dollar from the US perhaps? No, rejected. Nothing seemed to work. No coin of any denomination! I know some cabs run on tokens so perhaps this machine was used on tokens. Anyway, I searched online to see if the coin mechanism could be adjusted. Sure enough, after a few minutes I bent a few levers and moved a few screws and just like that, I was able to get the 100Y coin recognised. The coin mech is a lovely bit of machinery that checks the coin for the correct size and weight. If it rotates properly inside the mechanism, it is passed through the centre, and drops down over a small metal lever connected to some electrical wires. When the wire moves, a signal is sent to the I/O board triggering the game to know a coin has been entered, and a credit can be awarded (the game is fully configurable for numbers of credits per coins etc.) Once the coin drops into the coin box and the game has received the credit, the coin counter increments by one. Think of it like an odometer for your car - this cabinet when I got it had taken over 46,000 coins in its lifetime. If each coin is worth 100Y (approx. 50p), then that’s about £23,000GBP! These cabinets sure have the potential to make good money!

The coin mech is a beautifully made machine manufactured by Asahi-Seiko:


I was really starting to enjoy working on this cabinet by now, so I started hunting for some new joysticks and buttons. Sanwa are highly regarded in this instance, and I wanted the authentic Japanese experience. The cabinet already had these buttons fitted, but were pink and yellow. The Windy 2 should have come with white and blue, so I ordered some online from Arcade Parts UK (a new British company that sources authentic Japanese parts and ships them direct to your door with a free packet of sweets inside - excellent service)!

(To be continued on post 2)
 
Last edited:

Dickibow

Newbie
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
82CR
Convergence and kilohertz:
The search for a monitor chassis continued. The Windy 2 came from the factory with Toshiba monitors and a Toshiba chassis (PB7534). This chassis has the ability to decode and display video signals in either low, medium or high resolution (15/24/31kHz). It’s sometimes referred to as a tri-sync chassis. I scoured the internet for months looking for one. Even to this day I have never found one, but I found some other restoration builds online for this type of cabinet, and with my same monitor. I think some Windy 2 cabinets shipped with slightly different Toshiba monitors but according to two other forum users, they had success fitting a tri-sync Nanao MS-2930 chassis to theirs. I decided that I would try the same! I put a wanted post on UKvAc and a very kind user said that they had one in their storage unit and would send pics at a later date. True to their word, the pics arrived. It looked like a green circuit board to me but I didn’t see any burn marks on it, and I was assured that it was fully working when last used a few years ago. By the end of the week, the new chassis had arrived and I tried to install it the following day.

No, it turns out you can’t just install a different chassis into another monitor! The plugs from my monitor (I had four) didn’t fit onto the pins on the chassis. I contacted a very helpful guy in Paris who makes adapter cables and he made me some adapters for the four wires I needed to hook up (horizontal circuit, vertical circuit, degauss circuit, and ground connection on neck board). Whilst the adapters were being made for me, I needed to research how to plug these wires into the chassis. Where did each wire go? Which orientation? The colours of my monitor wires didn’t match with the colours written on the chassis board. Again, UKvAc to the rescue and in particular, a shoutout here to Gunblade. Not only did he advise me of where these wires should go and what they would do, but also offered me advice for how to test the yoke before connecting up the chassis for the first time. Each yoke is different, and although you could have two monitors with the same tube number, if they were from different arcade machine types, or from different television manufacturers, chances are the yokes were also different.

I decided to buy a LCR inductance meter, and after testing mine out, the specifications were pretty close to what the Toshiba PB7534 worked with. I decided to bite the bullet and hook in the chassis with my newly received adapter cables. The red/blue wires from my monitor went to the helpfully labelled red and blue pins, and the yellow/green wires went to the brown and yellow pins. The white degauss cable went to the two pins in the corner of the chassis, and the single ground wire, went from the metal strap on the rear of the tube to the single pin located on the neck board.

I plugged everything in, held my breath, and with my fingers hovering over the power switch (in case of explosion or smoke), I hit the switch. I instantly heard a static crackle and I eagerly ran around to the front of the cabinet. I couldn’t believe it, but I had a picture! Ok, it looked terrible, but I had a picture!!! It was out of focus, it was upside down, it was back to front, and it was the wrong colour. But I had a picture!! The monitor worked!!

Not the best looking image I think you'll agree, but it was at least a picture:


I tweaked the knobs on the flyback to focus the image and to reduce the brightness. There was a lot of colour bleed from text which I needed to resolve. I turned the monitor off and swapped the orientation of both wires around and restarted it. The picture was now the right way up and was starting to look much better already. I continued to adjust the picture by tweaking the remote adjustment board and was able to check the geometry with the grid test pattern built in to the Gradius IV test menu. The convergence was looking pretty poor though, and the screen desperately needed a degauss.

Slowly, I managed to improve the picture:


Degaussing was easy, push the button a few times on the windy 2 power supply and the screen wobbles and the colours returned! The convergence was tricky, and even now, right in the far corners, on a grid pattern you can see that the lines aren’t 100% perfect. However, I’ve tried and tried and I think I’ve got the screen pretty much as good as I can get it. If you have seen the back of an arcade tube before, you’ll see a set of metal rings attached between the tube and yoke. These are called convergence rings. I didn’t know what they were either, but apparently by twisting them, you can move the red, green and blue pixels to overlap to create a crisp white image. The internet is truly wonderful and several YouTube videos and forum tutorials later, I learned what to do. Once I had gotten the image as good as I could, I got a permanent marker and drew a line on the rings. That way, if I wanted to fine tune them at a later date, I would have a bench mark to return to. It’s so easy to twist one of the rings and to have the others next to it also turn. Before you know it, the picture is worse than it was when you started!

What an improvement. The picture started to look so crisp:



The colours were now vibrant and bright:


The cooler the better:
So….thats it. Everything is working and the arcade machine is running. Well, not quite. I had an exhaust fan attached on the rear of the access hatch which wasn’t plugged into anything. It was definitely a Konami fan. It had the proper cable and connectors, but nothing to plug into. All the power receptacles on the power supply were in use except for one labelled AC100v. Well, that wasn’t going to work with my DC 12v fan was it? Or was it….? I bought a small transformer that converts AC 100-240v into DC 12v. This transformer was tiny and only cost a few pounds from eBay. I researched the plug type and discovered it was a JST standard plug (Link to my other post!) and I connected it up and the fan started working! Nice! Heat and dampness wreak havoc with arcade electrics so any chance to remove heat is a bonus.

Neat little transformer to power the rear exhaust fan:


It turns out that not all Windy 2 cabs have exhaust fans. Mine is an early example, and shouldn’t have a fan equipped to the rear access hatch. Those that do (later models) have a different power supply that outputs the correct power type. Seeing as I didn’t have the plain (non-fan style slated door), I decided that keeping the fan was a better idea. The only problem was, that the fan was super noisy. Exhaust flow was good, but far too noisy. I planned on relocating the cabinet to the house eventually and I preferred it to be quieter. I bought a 92mm Noctua fan which is much quieter. You can still hear the air flow extraction, but there is hardly any noise from the motor itself. I’ve kept the old fan though in case I want it for the future.

Seeing as I was really happy with my fan mod (which is totally reversible by the way), I thought about doing some other mods to help improve the machine. The sound from the stereo speakers was very loud but when I played Gradius IV on my Trinitron inside the house, the bass was so much better. I thought about upgrading the speakers. One of the original speakers had a dent in the paper cone where somebody has poked it over the years. I tried my hardest to remove it (vacuum cleaner, glue dots), nothing worked. So I bought a modern pair of shielded speakers (the exact same size and impedance rating), but with a slightly higher power output. The speaker cones were made of rubber too, so surely they must sound better? Well, they did a little bit. They had a bit more bass than the originals, but they still didn’t sound as good as I wanted. I decided to do some research……(more on this later)…and in the meantime, I cleaned the outside of the cabinet to try and get it looking its best.

New speakers fit perfectly, and have a slightly deeper tone than the originals. It still needed more bass though for an arcade cabinet:


To be continued on post 3...
 
Last edited:

Dickibow

Newbie
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
82CR
Gradius IV - the fabulous but unloved underdog:
I now had a fully working arcade cabinet and it was now Summer 2025. I would spend several evenings a week in the garage after dinner bashing away playing Gradius IV. Wow, what a game this is. I don’t know why “fans” say how disappointing it is compared to Gradius 2. I’m going to say, that Gradius IV in my opinion is the best of the series. It has the best music of the four Gradius arcade games, it has the best graphics and it’s really addictive! I have Gradius 2 (Vulcan Venture) and Gradius (Nemesis) on PCBs and whilst they are excellent games, I find myself wanting to play Gradius IV the most. I love the fact that 4 is so similar to 2. It’s almost like a “remake”, which is why it’s called fukkatsu (which translates to revival/resurrection).

Capitivating intro:


The game has 9 levels. And it’s hard. Really hard. I’ve kept the game difficulty on standard (that’s 4 out of 7). Factory default. The first two levels are actually quite easy, but level 3 with the bubbles….man that’s one steep learning curve. It’s properly tough! Getting to the boss straight through in one go, so that you have all your options is one tough haul! After days and days of trying, I finally defeated the bubble boss and got to level 4 - the lava level. This is my favourite! It’s action packed, and when the lava starts moving towards the end of the stage, your eyeballs will be on stalks. The boss fight of this stage is actually ok. If you can avoid his rapid fire shots at the start, you’ll have no problem beating him. Just avoid his little parasites that chase after you, and you’ll be onto level 5 in no time!

Watch out for the lava!:


Ok, now it’s on to the dreaded Moai level….the one with the heads from Easter Island. A Gradius favourite. You thought the bubble level was hard? Well, you haven’t seen anything yet. My top tip, is fly as fast as you can. Those giant rings that chase you (they look like polo sweets), move fast, and there will be loads on the screen. I love that there is no slow down when this game is at max performance. Vulcan Venture certainly suffers it a bit, and so does Nemesis if you have four options with you and the laser weapon. If you manage to escape the first part of the level with the orange heads, the second part is worse. The heads change to purple, and can now spin around to fire those rings at you after you’ve flown past! Jeeez, you need to fly fast and accurately, whilst spamming the fire button! If you make it to the boss, he’s not that bad. His pattern is the same 90% of the time. With the two giant heads destroyed you can go on to level 6, the body-like level, with cells and stuff. This for me, is impossible, and as far as I can get. Even after putting in all 41 coins that I have, I can’t get past the middle part of this level!

Naughty high scores:
And this is why I keep coming back to this game. One day, I know I’ll do it! One day, I will beat this game. But until then, I’ll gleefully put my initials on the high score table. I’ve been playing around with that actually and it seems that the developers have put in code that disallows you from entering naughty initials onto the high score table. I’ve tried loads over the summer, and so far, I’ve found 5: (a$s, $ex, ira, kkk, fuk). Are there any more, or have I found them all? If you try to enter these combinations of letters, and press a button to store it, you’ll hear the game say “DANGER” and the letters you entered will revert to AAA and your score will be locked in as that. If however, you really want these letters to go onto the high score table, there is in fact a way that I’ve found to do it. Enter your chosen naughty initials, and then don’t press a button. Let the game time you out. You won’t be able to choose your gender or horoscope, but you’ll get your naughty word to appear on the screen. I’ve tested this out on the PS2 version too, and it’s got the same logic.

RTC Checksum Error:
Upon every boot-up, an error message would appear on the screen explaining that the real-time clock had an error, and that factory default settings would be applied. Once the error was acknowledged, you’d be prompted to enter the date/time and configure the settings for the game. For example, I prefer the sound to run on attract mode on every fourth cycle. The game by default also doesn’t allow for continues. Erm….thats a strange choice considering not only how difficult the game is, but the allowing of a continue helps to feed that addiction, right? I prefer to always use a few continues, especially if I get far into the game. The only way I’m ever going to beat it, is by practicing. Anyway, this constant resetting of settings was becoming tiresome and I really wanted to find a way to fix it once and for all. Gradius IV has a battery located on the motherboard which stores the settings described above, along with the book keeping information (number of coins received over time/weeks) etc so arcade operators can view their income. The lithium battery is stored *inside* one of the chips. Which is great news because it can’t leak and destroy the board, but bad news because it can’t be replaced. The chip in question is an M48T58Y-70PC1. I contacted several arcade and electronics repairers online to see if there was a potential solution to replacing this chip. Hobbyists over the years have ‘dremeled’ out the battery from within the chip, and soldered a CR2032 coin cell holder on the top. Whilst it’s not exactly an elegant solution, it was at least, a fix. One arcade board repairer suggest I get in contact with a chap called Gunblade, who if you recall earlier, was very helpful when assisting with the connections of my monitor and chassis. I got in touch with him and he suggested a modern solution of removing the chip entirely, and soldering an adapter plate to the game board. The adapter plate would allow us to solder on the modern day equivalent of the old chip, which was now called a: M48T58Y-70MH1F. This new version features a battery/crystal which simply snaps on top of the chip, and is changeable when it expires. I ordered up the components from Digikey and drove to Gunblade’s house. He does offer a postal service but I didn’t like the idea of posting the arcade game so I opted to drop-off and collect in person. Within the week, the modification had taken place and once booted up, no more dreaded RTC error, and all of the game settings and book keeping Information is now retained! Amazing! I ordered an extra spare snap-on battery to keep for when the new battery expires. I don’t know how long it will last for, or whether the spare battery will expire in its packaging, but time will tell. Massive thanks to Gunblade for his helpful advice and assistance. I couldn’t have done it without him, and I highly recommend his repair services. Thank you!

New RTC chip installed and looking great:


Looks like the test passed. Board correctly recognised as a GX837 and version JAC (JA, Japan region, and release revision C). Before the fix, the board would boot with random characters. Most often it would display UUUUU-UUU, but it could have been anything:


Relocation:
By now, I’d fallen in love with the Konami Windy 2 cabinet and Gradius IV. In fact, I’m a candy cab lover to all cabs now. I want to find more and resurrect these beautiful sit down machines. I poached the question to the wife to see if I could relocate the cabinet into a corner of the kitchen, or to the downstairs office/study. The kitchen was a no-go because the kitchen is white and red, and the cabinet is blue and that apparently doesn’t match. So, into the study it was supposed to go instead, but there were two problems……the first, moving the cabinet from the separate garage building to the house is quite a long distance, and there are steps surrounded by railings leading up to the house. Also there is a 90 degree turn on those steps. Quite simply, it would be a massive struggle and those railings would really hinder us. But what if I dismantle it and take it in piece by piece? That’s a great idea I thought to myself! I removed the power supply, the control panel and the top screen cover. I was reminded of how disgusting it was inside the cabinet, even though I had cleaned the outside of it and it looked good, the inside was just a bit too manky. No, it just won’t do. If this cabinet is going into the house, it should look as good as it plays.

To be continued in post 4...
 
Last edited:

Dickibow

Newbie
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
82CR
Dismantling and cleaning:
I had decided that not only was I going to fully dismantle the cabinet, but to get it professionally painted too. This was going to be a full nut and bolt restoration. I removed every screw from every part, and carefully put them into individual bags with labels. There was no way I would be able to remember which screws went where otherwise. I also realised I would need photographs too. There were lots of earthing cables that needed removing, and as for that power panel in the rear of the cab, that was quite complicated. I knew I would need pictures of all that wiring if I didn’t want to blow up the machine after removing everything. In my head, this was just giant Lego, but with no instructions, so I had to make sure I could reassemble it. Dismantling the cabinet wasn’t too difficult. I did it in an afternoon. I laid out all of the components on my work benches, and the parts that required painting, would go on the other side of the garage for when I was ready.

The parts soon started piling up:


The coin box area was quite rusty. The cabinet had clearly been exposed to dampness at some point in its life:


More rust and dirt inside. Everything needed to be fully cleaned before I could even think about the paint:


With the main interior components removed, I started on cleaning the five large main parts which make up the cabinet shell. The inside was an absolute health hazard. There was this weird black coating on the inside of all the plastics which I think is tar from cigarette smoke. In Japanese arcades you still see people smoking inside. It didn’t clean off with alcohol, so I used a gritty cleaning solution called “the pink stuff”, which is incredible. It’s a bit like Jif (or Cif as it’s called these days I think), but it’s less runny (more like a paste), and it contains fewer chemicals. I still had to scrub like mad but the cabinet was cleaning up a treat! I spent several sunny days (with a thirst quenching beer) in the garden cleaning the parts bit by bit. Inside and out. Every nook and crannie. I used toothbrushes to get into the hard to reach areas, and cue tips (q-tips) for getting into the corners. General all purpose yellow sponges with the green scratchy pads on one side worked very well. During the cleaning it made me think that from an engineering perspective, the cabinet is actually very well made. It doesn’t flex, and when connected, is surprisingly solid and heavy. Once all the plastics had been cleaned inside and out, I was ready to take the parts to the paint shop.

This is the black grime that plagued the interior of the cabinet. I spent quite a long time with the wife's toothbrush cleaning this out!


The game board support was the most corroded steel piece inside


Off to the paint shop!:


Paint. Which paint?
The Konami Windy cabinets (both 1 and 2) are painted in a mysterious sparkly pearlescent style white paint. When the light shines on it at the right angle, you can see a pinky blue sparkle to the white colour. The paint on my cabinet was discoloured and yellowed. I didn’t want the paint analysed as I wanted the newly painted cabinet to look factory fresh. I had a look at a colour chart book and then it hit me, why not use a Japanese car paint? After all, the cabinet is Japanese, so it makes sense, right? I chose a Honda paint with a rather catchy name called NH788P. It’s a tricoat pearlescent paint, which, as the name suggests, has three coats to it. The base white layer is painted first, then the sparkly layer is added, and the final layer is the clear coat. The paint shop said I would be able to collect the parts in about two to three weeks. I didn’t just arrange to have the cabinet plastics painted though, I also arranged to have all the hinges, doors and handhold shrouds painted too. Everything that was originally painted, would be repainted.

Rust, rust and more rust:
With the exterior of the cabinet getting primed, filled, flatted and painted, my attention turned to the interior parts of the cabinet, and in particular to the metal bits. The monitor chassis sits on a metal support platform which connects to the coin box surround. It was rusty. The inside of the coin box, yep, that was rusty too including the coin counter. The metal game board slider which stores the game board in, yep, that was even rustier! The feet supports, yes, they too were rusty. I took all these unpainted pieces of steel to a chap in the next village who runs a shotblasting and painting business. I gave him all the pieces of metal and asked if he could blast off all the rust, and paint everything in a bright silver colour. Not only would this look nice, but it would also prevent these parts from rusting further.

The steel parts were in dire need of blasting and painting - just look at the game board support:


Sticky situation with the stickers:
A few stickers on the cabinet were too damaged, or were damaged when they were removed. The main stickers that needed replacing were the two large Windy blue side art stickers, the red warning sticker that directs you to lift the front bezel from a certain position with your hand, and the little black/silver metal stickers on the rear power panel to identify the various audio/visual inputs and outputs. I found a very helpful person online from Spain who runs the Zona Arcade forum and he reproduces accurate stickers for the Windy 2. He didn’t have some of the stickers I needed so I carefully scanned these for him. The printed stickers arrived a few weeks later and they look excellent. I’m still waiting for the side art to arrive, and I do already have some from Arcade Art Repro. I can decide which look best when I have both sets in front of me.

Sticker samples that needed scanning, restoring and reprinting:


It’s just Lego without instructions:
I would be lying if I said it was quick and easy to put this arcade back together. Thankfully I had all those photographs on my phone to see where things went. On the plus side, it was easy to move all the parts into the house with it being disassembled! Whilst the plastics and metal were being painted I dismantled and cleaned the power supply and monitor chassis. I also sourced a reproduction single player control panel from an arcade fan who lives in Taiwan. I found his contact details on the arcade projects forum. Although there was nothing wrong with my two player panel, I preferred the idea of sitting centrally, rather than being offset to one side. The panel was custom made for me and arrived promptly (three weeks after paying, it was built and delivered). I went to transfer over one of the original joysticks but it had a slightly different mounting plate, so it wouldn’t fit and the joystick was too short. I could have made it fit, but decided to splash out on a fancy Sanwa joystick with extended shaft. This new joystick was slightly too long so I used rubber washers as spacers under the control panel to allow it to fit exactly as I wanted. I also ordered some spare PCB feet, and more buttons.

New reproduction single player control panel arrived from Taiwan - my assistant was helping to install the buttons and joystick:


Wooden game slider board:
The arcade game (naked PCB or PC style Hornet) simply screws onto a piece of wood which can slide in and out of the cabinet. I’ve got two other PCB games (Nemesis and Vulcan Venture), which I would like to be able to play in the Windy 2. Rather than keep screwing and unscrewing the games to the same wooden board, I thought about getting some reproduction boards made. I contacted a company I found online that specialises in custom plywood cutting. I created an amazing (ahem) drawing in Microsoft PowerPoint detailing the size and width of the board I required, and the positioning of the hand hold cut-out. Each board cost around £17, and although it’s not the easiest way to store them, it means I can simply slide the games in and out. I’ve only got one Konami JVS to JAMMA adapter plate though. I’ll try to source another one, and then I can leave one each screwed onto the board next to its game. For now, I’ll have to keep transferring it between boards. It’s only four small screws though.

Reproduction game board fit perfectly into the metal slider:


The new wooden arcade boards look great! (Vulcan Venture / Gradius 2):
 
Last edited:

Dickibow

Newbie
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
82CR
Marquee topper:
When Gradius IV was released in to Japanese arcades in 1999, it was presented in the Konami windy 2 cabinet, with a plastic sign located on top (known as a topper, or marquee). My cabinet did not originally come with this, so I was always on the lookout. Both Windy 1 and 2 plastic toppers are compatible with each other, except the blank advertising space artwork is a different colour. Windy 1 is a sort of fluorescent yellow colour, and the Windy 2 is navy blue. During the course of the year I had been spending a lot of time in China with work and unbeknown to me at the time, China has a lot of authentic Japanese arcade machines, including candy cabinets. One of the locals I got to know over there was kind enough to locate a used topper for me that was in excellent condition. The topper had been used on a Windy 2 featuring the game: Fighting Wu-Shu (known elsewhere as Fighting Bujutsu). The operator’s manual for Fighting Wu-shu was also included. It’s a thick manual that is quite strange in the fact that it incorporates both English and Chinese language, and it also features instructions for the game, and also Windy 2 cabinet generic instructions. It’s basically the game manual and Windy 2 manual rolled into one chunky book!

Vic Viper topper:
Attached to the plastic advertising topper, in the arcades, a giant Vic Viper model was installed. I’ve been searching high and low for one of these so that I can either buy a used one, or borrow one to get it scanned and re-produced. So far, I haven’t found one. If anyone knows of one I could borrow, please let me know! In the meantime, I purchased a plastic model kit of the famous Vic Viper and one rainy summer afternoon I set about to build it. I’ve attached it to the top of the cabinet with blu-tac. It’s not quite as good as the real topper from the arcades, but it’s good enough for now as an alternative!

Sounds like it’s almost ready:
As mentioned earlier, the sound from the new speakers still wasn’t as good as I was hoping. The volume was nice and loud, but just lacked that little bit of low down bass I was after. Underneath the monitor chassis is a surprising amount of space. I took some measurements and thought about adding in a small PC subwoofer. I needed one with a wired remote control so that I could adjust the volume from inside the control panel. Once the subwoofer was installed, I would not be able to change the gain (amount of thump), or volume because the knobs would be inaccessible. After researching other setups online I settled for a 120w Trust subwoofer. It’s designed to be used as a PC 2.1 setup, but looking at the inputs on the rear, it would be perfect for my cabinet.

The Gradius IV hornet has two sound outputs. The first output goes to the Konami amp contained within the power supply. The second output is designed to go to the rear power panel (audio out) so that from outside of the cabinet you can access the audio with external speakers. I decided that the second audio output from the hornet should go directly into the wired remote control. The remote connects to the subwoofer. The subwoofer itself has an audio output which is meant for the two speakers that the subwoofer shipped with. I’ve decided to connect this audio output to the outputs in the rear power panel. This way, the cabinet retains authentic functionality as it was originally designed for, and I get a bit of bass from within the cab to complement the two existing cabinet speakers. The subwoofer install is completely reversible and non-invasive. Nothing has been drilled or cut, and no wires have been spliced into. I gave the cabinet a brief test run during the rebuild process to check my wiring etc, and the sound quality now is phenomenal. I don’t know if the Windy cabs ever shipped with subwoofers, but wow oh wow, this one now sounds immense! When the game runs through its attract mode, the music sounds excellent!

EDIT: Subwoofer install pic:


I removed the plug from the subwoofer power cable, and connected it directly to the output of the noise filter (240v). This means when I turn on/off the cabinet from the rear, the subwoofer instantly powers on/off too, and it also means that I have just the one power cable going into the rear of the Windy 2. You can see that the subwoofer fits perfectly in the void underneath the chassis support. You can also see the brackets I installed that raise the MS2930 chassis. This was needed because the cables from the tube weren’t long enough to reach the board.

Final Assembly - I'm so happy how this has turned out:




















Final result:
If you got this far and haven’t fallen asleep yet, well done! Overall it’s taken me about 8 months (on and off) to complete this cabinet rebuild from point of delivery, to now. What started off as an impulse game buy on a work trip, has turned into a full arcade cabinet purchase, followed by several repairs, and then a strip/clean/paint/assemble job! For the future I would like to buy another cabinet, perhaps a 15/24 kHz Windy 1 and install a mistercade. For now I have a cheap Pandora box that I can throw into the Windy 2, but I would prefer something a bit better. The Windy 2 original coin reject button was rusted and had a flakey chrome coating. I have installed a new/old stock Sega Astro City reject button temporarily. It actually looks really nice and has a good quality springy feel compared to the Konami version, but it’s not original. I also had to install a couple of washers behind the button to space it away from the reject mechanism. Without doing that, when the door was closed, slight pressure was being applied to coin mech which resulted in all coins being rejected. I’ve since found a company who can zinc-plate the original Konami button for me. I shall give this a try in future and will report back.

More pics, once I have both types of side art and I’ve chosen one to attach, but for now, this machine is done!!

In the meantime, keep on gaming.
 
Last edited:

qjuk

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
47 (98%)
Credits
1,663CR
What a cracking job you’ve done on the restore, I love it!

Great write up as well. By stripping a machine down and spending some time cleaning and rebuilding it, the end results are amazing and importantly you learn a lot about the machine in the process.
 

69er

Active member
Feedback
5 (100%)
Credits
1,505CR
BRILLIANT SUMMARY WRITE UP..
Very tricky at times but nice result !

I too only scanned and skipped a few sentences along the way but I might re-read at some time……? Nice pictures too!
 
Top