Daytona 2 resurrection/restoration

[Vamino]

Hi,

I'm currently rebuilding my first Daytona 2 cab, the wiring had been hacked in quite a few places so I've removed a load of spaghetti and started fresh as it were.

After cleaning everything, I've now swapped all the boards/loom etc over into another better conditioned shell and am trying to finish off the cabling to and from the step down. This has got me stumped at the moment as it is blowing fuses/tripping out the fusebox.

It's a twin and has 2 step downs on one side....I'm not 100% sure if they have to be daisy chained, or if I can use 1 step down per side.

If I plug power into the power plate without the step down connected, it makes a (normal?) thud noise and doesn't trip any fuses. As soon as I plug in the step down and power it up, it then trips/blows the fuse in the plug/consumer box. I've tried both step downs and they both do the same thing. The seller did say it powered up, so I don't think both the step downs were faulty.

Where I'm at:

The back of the power plate assy has a connector from the filter, which then plugs into another cable......

....that cable then appears to plug into the step down, but I'm not sure if the wires are in the correct place due to the hackery that was there previously....the black and white fromn the power plate connect to black and blue on the step down.

There are 2 of these step downs, can I use 1 per side? Or do they have to be daisy chained to give the correct output?

Can someone help me get to the bottom of this?

Thanks.
Vamino2014-02-21 18:51:25

 

[Ordyne]

Looking at what you have there it's a Japanese built machine which was originally 120v, someone will have added a step down transformer to the side of the twin which has the kettle lead, that will take 220v, step it down to 120v and then that's sent to the isolation transformer which outputs the 100v around the cabinet via the pink and blue wires.

 

[Vamino]

Thanks for the reply Craig.

I thought that the pic I took was of the step down mate? So thats the isolation transformer then?
The other cab is in storage, but I took all the power stuff out so I could try to finish this cab first, I couldn't see anything else apart from whats in the following picture.

Like I said, there were 2 of those on the one side, and each side had a smaller transformer with a fan cooling it. When I first started work on it there was some ghetto
cabling going from one of those larger transformers to the other side so I ripped that cabling straight out.

Just in case I've fubarred both transformers, I've also got a different what I assume is a step down I bought off Mo a while back, the connectors are a bit different though....would this be better to use?
I don't know what cab it's from but t's flippin' heavy!

Thanks again.

 

[Vamino]

Installed the proper step down, now I understand what the stickers were telling me! What a dumb ass I am. My excuse is I was busy over the weekend.

Before I blow something else up, could someone verify what colour cables should be connected please?

I've power from the wall which ends up as a Black and White connector from the filter...
Then, I've got a Black (0v) and Brown (240v) connector into the step down.
And the output, Pink and skyblue (100v) from the step down into the loom.

So is it:

Black - Black
White - Brown

Or

Black - Brown
White - Black

Thanks a lot!

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Since there was no reply I figured what the heck, I'd take a gamble on connecting the blacks together and hope they were both neutral, and the brown and white together and hoped they were live. Tested with a multimeter and Bobs your uncle, 104v spewing out the Skyblue and Pink output.

Powered up the cab, Chasis is squealing with no picture and ER-20 showing on the drive control board, Servo motor/FFB problem according to Google. Gonna swap the Chassis and servo boards over tomorrow and see where that takes me...

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Well, since it's my day off I've had another crack at this cab.
I'm not sure if anyone is interested, but I've made a bit of progress.

Replaced the chassis, the tube is really nice.

The gear that meshes to the accel pot on the pedals was worn away, had to replace that.
Sorted out the power issue to the control board.

I'm at this stage now:

Now I've got ER-22 (centering issue), the motor is working but is extremely stiff even at 50%. When I unplug the power to the board I can play the game fine.
I also have sound issues, I basically don't have any sound. Tested the amp on my ID cab, it works fine.....so I dunno if it's the MPEG board, incorrect jumper settings on the amp or the service panel. I'm gonna have a mess about anyway....

I'm now gonna try the dash on my ID cab and see if the problem moves with the dash or stays with the cab. At least it's working now and it playable so thats something.......

 

[Outrun2]

I'm interested!

I was longing for a Daytona 2 for ages as I've never owned a Model 3 driver. I was biding my time waiting for the right cab though and then a twin F355 2 turned up that I couldn't pass up! So I'm totally out of space now and would need to sell a cab before buying, which I don't do

Will be interesting to see how you get on with this cab, especially as it's a Jap version - there are a few subtle differences aren't there.

Nice to have a picture and a good one at that - gives encouragement to carry on with the resto

 

[Vamino]

Hi Gary,

I was gonna post a tumbleweed as my next pic.

I have absolutely no idea what differences there are between the Jp, USA and EU versions mate, I'm learning as I go along. Just applying basic faultfinding at the moment to see whats what.

I think this is still considered a question thread, which will probably gradually transform into a resto thread. I have 2 cabs to do, and will most likely sell the other if I can get both of them running. I promised I'd give a friend first refusal on the other one.
I only started off with an Initial D, now I have 4 Daytona 2 shells.

Well I've got sound now, but to get the most sound effect I have to swap things around.
I've got 2 working boardsets, I'll call them boardset 1 + boardset 2.
2 MPEG boards.

*boardset1* + *MPEG1* I get some music but no sound effects, it appears all the music works except for the beginner/advanced/expert music+arrangements.

*boardset1* and *MPEG2* I get no sound whatsoever.
*boardset 2* and *MPEG1* I get sound effects and all music except course music as above.
*boardset2* + I just get sound effects.

So it looks as though there is a sound effect fault with one of my boardsets, and one MPEG has a possible rom issue, the other MPEG has another fault as I tried swapping over the roms from the working one into the dud one without any change. The dud one's led's light up, so it appears to be getting power.....I'm pretty sure Craig or Andy sells roms so that may be my next thing to try, unless someone has any suggestions?

The steering issue remains which I'll tackle once I have another servo board to test. I've read that the cab needs to be earthed correctly as that can blow servo boards, how true that is I have no idea.
Tried the Model 3 dash on my ID cab, works fine, so the problem lays elsewhere.

Attached the seat and plugged in the front speaker, plays great!

I took a big gamble buying this, 3 trips (over 600 miles in total) to collect it. I must be mad......

Cheers.

Vamino2014-02-05 16:47:54

 

[Ordyne]

A few things to help...

Game music is only outputted via one pair of channels on the MPEG board IIRR, it outputs on all channels during attract, I doubt you have two mpeg boards with the same bad roms.

Dont forget that a lot of sound fx are from the board and not the mpeg.

M3 force feedback isn't earthed, dont believe what you read on the interweb

 

[Vamino]

Thanks for the input Craig.

I did a search on Google and ended up back here

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/sega-dsb2-daytona-usa-2-no-sound_topic335911.html

I swapped over CN 6 + CN7 on the MPEG board, and bingo I now have all sounds!
There is extremely slight road graphical glitching on the boardset with the working sound, but it's not noticable tbh....actually one of the boards has been service by you at some point mate.

Man, I'm so happy to get at least 1 side almost working!!
Just need to sort out why there is no sound at all from the other boardset and MPEG board.
I may need to buy some roms off you at some point if they prove to be where the issues lay.

Weeeee, off to play another couple of games.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Can anyone guide me to where a couple of specific Rom locations are in the Model 3 cage?
Pictures would be a tremendous help at this point.

I'm after the Roms for:
The sound effects
The texture Roms as one cage did fail a texture test.

>Driver/servo board.
I spoke to a work colleague today who used to repair various servo pcb's to the component level, he mentioned that the main fault with servo boards that he worked on was that the caps tend to dry out with prolonged heat/useage. So, I'll show him the board and I'll see what he says, I'll write my discoveries when I know a bit more.

Cheers..

 

[Ordyne]

Texture test?!?! Don't recall that being in the test menu!

Run a memory test, from my memory im pretty sure it tests all the roms and it will tell you the IC locations.

The individual sections you ask about are marked on the rom board under the sockets.

IIRR sound roms are IC21-25, textures are at the other side of the rom board.

Good luck with the caps on the servo board, dont think thats going to lead anywhere I'm afraid.

 

[AndyGeezer]

Remember memory tests do not test Sound ICs, so you'll have to manually dump and compare CRCs with the MAME dump.

Failing a texture memory is the FIFO chips on the video board, nothing to-do with mask roms on the rom board.

TBH the mask roms on Model 3 hardly fail, out of 10+ years, it's only happend about a dozen times or so from over 100 odd PCBs.

 

[AndyGeezer]

Hi Gary,

*boardset1* + *MPEG1* I get some music but no sound effects, it appears all the music works except for the beginner/advanced/expert music+arrangements.

Remember Daytona 2 uses both front and rear for music, so you need both audio cables inside the cage hooked up.

Games like Trilogy do not carry the extra audio cable!

Go check on the MPEG2 audio board and make sure CN6 and CN7 wiring exists which goes to CN4 and CN5 on the MPEG filterboard - chances are CN7 loom is missing!

 

[Alpha1]

Vamino! Didn't take long to get another machine

 

[Vamino]

Massive thanks for the input guys.

I'm running on empty these days, so bare with me if I'm not explaining things correctly as I'm pretty much a newbie on this type of stuff.
Just done a memory/texture test, it failed again:

I do have a little bit of glitching on the road textures, it's not bad but it's kinda hard to describe....kinda like thin purple lines on the road texture? When it's a bit warmer and I've a bit more free time I'll try and take some detailed pics.

I know I'm clutching at straws regarding the servo board mate, but I'll give it a try for a few quid.
Anything else it could be? One board centers to the middle very stiff both left and right, the other board is stiff to the right and fine to the left. It seems like one board has completely failed and the other is 50% poorly....

>Alpha.
It's your fault I've got a garage full of Sega racers! But....I'm having great fun getting this one up and running if I'm being honest, so while I blame you I also say thanks.

I've been beavering away for a couple of weeks on this one in my spare time, it's gone from a filthy pile of bits to something which will be in great shape when finished. The only problem is I may have to sell something in order to start the next project.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Hi Gary,

*boardset1* + *MPEG1* I get some music but no sound effects, it appears all the music works except for the beginner/advanced/expert music+arrangements.

Remember Daytona 2 uses both front and rear for music, so you need both audio cables inside the cage hooked up.

Games like Trilogy do not carry the extra audio cable!

Go check on the MPEG2 audio board and make sure CN6 and CN7 wiring exists which goes to CN4 and CN5 on the MPEG filterboard - chances are CN7 loom is missing!

The cables appear to be present and correct mate.
I also tried swapping the cables and filter boards over, and also swapped over the roms...which proved all the roms, cables and filter boards are good but I still get no sound from the one audio board.

I'll take some pics tomorrow in case I'm missing something obvious.
Oh, all the jumpers appear to be the same as the working one....

Thanks again.

 

[Ordyne]

Your showing bad rams around one custom which would suggest either one ram is making all the others show bad (if you're lucky) or the custom is bad / is open circuit.

Massive thanks for the input guys.

I'm running on empty these days, so bare with me if I'm not explaining things correctly as I'm pretty much a newbie on this type of stuff.
Just done a memory/texture test, it failed again:

I do have a little bit of glitching on the road textures, it's not bad but it's kinda hard to describe....kinda like thin purple lines on the road texture? When it's a bit warmer and I've a bit more free time I'll try and take some detailed pics.

I know I'm clutching at straws regarding the servo board mate, but I'll give it a try for a few quid.
Anything else it could be? One board centers to the middle very stiff both left and right, the other board is stiff to the right and fine to the left. It seems like one board has completely failed and the other is 50% poorly....

>Alpha.
It's your fault I've got a garage full of Sega racers! But....I'm having great fun getting this one up and running if I'm being honest, so while I blame you I also say thanks.

I've been beavering away for a couple of weeks on this one in my spare time, it's gone from a filthy pile of bits to something which will be in great shape when finished. The only problem is I may have to sell something in order to start the next project.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Your showing bad rams around one custom which would suggest either one ram is making all the others show bad (if you're lucky) or the custom is bad / is open circuit.

Luckily I have the luxury of having a working board here, so I could try swapping rams over to see if the fault can be narrowed down.

This may be a silly question mate, but if I swap over those suspect rams over into the working one, and the working rams into the suspect one would anything get damaged in the process when using bad rams?

Also, the custom you mention, is that replaceable/obtainable if it's bad?
I've got a few days off next week, so if you have any suggestions, I'll have a bash using any recommended faultfinding tips. If I do need some rams/a custom, do you have the capability to provide that service?

Thanks again Craig.

 

[AndyGeezer]

The rams are surface mount on the video board and rarely its actually the rams.

And if the custom is damaged the board is bin fodder.