Daytona 2 resurrection/restoration
- Thread starter Vamino
- Start date
Thanks mate.
I think when I tested everything I found those settings made the sub work, hmm, it looks like I need to sort that out on my cabs then!
It can be a struggle when doing stuff by yourself as a beginner, so I'm glad someone else has a cab as many heads are always better than one. Anyway, hopefully a lot of the required info required for a Model 3 restore can be documented for future reference.
Vamino2015-04-21 14:19:20
I think when I tested everything I found those settings made the sub work, hmm, it looks like I need to sort that out on my cabs then!
It can be a struggle when doing stuff by yourself as a beginner, so I'm glad someone else has a cab as many heads are always better than one. Anyway, hopefully a lot of the required info required for a Model 3 restore can be documented for future reference.
Vamino2015-04-21 14:19:20
The white block is a contactor, from memory I think they have to be on to meet the regulations in Japan. Check the spec on it, if they have wired you 230 to 110 transformer after it (ie 230 going though it) then your probably on or around its limit. My money would be on that or the mains filter causing your trip to go off. Remember most of the AC in parts were specced for 110v in so check them to see if switches and filters etc are rated for 230 IF 230 is going though them!
I've had to undo and then redo some 230 conversions due to this in the past.
Sorry I have no info for you on the amp dips, I've figured them all out before but never made notes and it's a long long time since I've had to alter any.
I've had to undo and then redo some 230 conversions due to this in the past.
Sorry I have no info for you on the amp dips, I've figured them all out before but never made notes and it's a long long time since I've had to alter any.
Thanks for the input folks - much appreciated. I kinda dread switching the cab on at the moment as there's something really horrible about a cab tripping the consumer board isn't there
Ah, yes that would be it. That's probably what makes the loud thud every time the cab is switched on - that coupled with the tripping consumer unit gives me a mild heart attack each time!
My JVS drivers are quiet in comparison. The 'boot up' is a bit more drawn out with drive board test only running once the game has loaded - it seems with Model 3 switch on it's instantly wham-bam thud, everything on, drive board test complete and let's get on with it!!
I'll try to get out and check the AC in side of things later. Does seem to be a lot going on in these converted Jap cabs - surely I could just replace the contactor, filter, xformer, and both step downs/PSUs for a UK style AC filter (off a Naomi cab) and a 230v - 100v/14v xformer from something like an iD cab and have done with it?
Definitely, we all play these games in the arcade but open the covers up and it's a whole other world of wiring and strange components! When I first got my iD cabs I didn't have a clue what was what, but with a little help from great places like this and some patience it all seems fairly straightforward after a while. I had three cabs the same back then so I could compare, but like you say when you don't it can be difficult.
Regarding the jumpers on the 4ch amp - Paul's photo (cheers mate) and the Daytona 2 manual would seem to support you on just the two jumpers being required - strange way of documenting it though..
On my JVS cabs I had to have eight jumpers on to get sound through all four speakers. Maybe the difference here is the woofer doesn't have its own vol pot on Daytona 2 - like you say volume is increased with the rear speakers.
Ordyne said:
Ah, yes that would be it. That's probably what makes the loud thud every time the cab is switched on - that coupled with the tripping consumer unit gives me a mild heart attack each time!
My JVS drivers are quiet in comparison. The 'boot up' is a bit more drawn out with drive board test only running once the game has loaded - it seems with Model 3 switch on it's instantly wham-bam thud, everything on, drive board test complete and let's get on with it!!
I'll try to get out and check the AC in side of things later. Does seem to be a lot going on in these converted Jap cabs - surely I could just replace the contactor, filter, xformer, and both step downs/PSUs for a UK style AC filter (off a Naomi cab) and a 230v - 100v/14v xformer from something like an iD cab and have done with it?
Vamino said:
Definitely, we all play these games in the arcade but open the covers up and it's a whole other world of wiring and strange components! When I first got my iD cabs I didn't have a clue what was what, but with a little help from great places like this and some patience it all seems fairly straightforward after a while. I had three cabs the same back then so I could compare, but like you say when you don't it can be difficult.
Regarding the jumpers on the 4ch amp - Paul's photo (cheers mate) and the Daytona 2 manual would seem to support you on just the two jumpers being required - strange way of documenting it though..
On my JVS cabs I had to have eight jumpers on to get sound through all four speakers. Maybe the difference here is the woofer doesn't have its own vol pot on Daytona 2 - like you say volume is increased with the rear speakers.
Ordyne said:
Interesting! Thanks for that info Craig.
I can't recall where I got that power plate from, I think it was from the other Jp D2 I have in storage.
I wonder why it didn't trip mine and Paul's consumer box but it's causing Gary's fuse to trip? In any case, I look forward to what the best solution is.....
I've just had a look on the D2 schematic in the manual, it states the same as what you posted Gary, Jp1 = 10+11 and Jp2 = 2+7. Yet Paul's D2 amp shows that a lot of the jumpers are populated as per your first jumper position question?
Outrun2 said:
I'm still none the wiser which one is the correct way for our Jp cabs!
I wonder if the different jumper settings are for the different DX/Twin cabs or for service panels with differing volume dial setups? I know the DX setup uses a different amp setup where it has 2 amps + a larger sub amp.