Flyback2021
Active member
Brilliant Job ! Fantastic restoration.
Enjoy !
Enjoy !
Gradius IV & restoring John Bud’s Konami Windy 2 cabinet
- Thread starter Dickibow
- Start date
K1ngarth3r
Active member
You've certainly gone to town on that cab, of course it looks superb. Congrats.
Good to see you protecting those nice car seats, is that an RS3 8Y?
Good to see you protecting those nice car seats, is that an RS3 8Y?
Thank you very much for all the positive comments everyone, I’m sure John would have loved seeing it too and I’m delighted with how it turned out.
@Stokers I used a company called fourdot affinity located in Devon. I found them online and emailed them the board design.
@AndyGeezer Well done, very observant of you! It is indeed your coin reject button! At the moment I’m using two other locks for the control panel which I found, and both use the same key (luckily I’ve got two keys), so for now this will do. I might still get some better quality Sega locks from you in the future but I’ve decided not to use those on this cabinet for now.
@K1ngarth3r It’s an RS4 (edition 25 years). Maximum protection was definitely needed for those seats!!
@Stokers I used a company called fourdot affinity located in Devon. I found them online and emailed them the board design.
@AndyGeezer Well done, very observant of you! It is indeed your coin reject button! At the moment I’m using two other locks for the control panel which I found, and both use the same key (luckily I’ve got two keys), so for now this will do. I might still get some better quality Sega locks from you in the future but I’ve decided not to use those on this cabinet for now.
@K1ngarth3r It’s an RS4 (edition 25 years). Maximum protection was definitely needed for those seats!!
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K1ngarth3r
Active member
Nice, lovely car.
Retroman839
Senior Member
Awsome job john would be happy you’ve dome a great job !
Nice one ..
I got one of his windy 2 panels for my windy 2 😉
Gradius 5 would be nice on a ps2 to jamma converter
Nice one ..
I got one of his windy 2 panels for my windy 2 😉
Gradius 5 would be nice on a ps2 to jamma converter
Wait! I have an explanation for that!
This was a cup of tea made in the garage! I always get my mug from the house before I start my jobs, so it’s right I put the milk in from the kitchen at the same time (no milk kept in garage you see). Then I walk out to the garage, boil the kettle, and then make my tea, so you see, I’m not a complete tea-drinking savage! Also, this particular mug is big. I choose it when I’m doing jobs, so I get a big drink. I leave the tea bag in so it gets proper tasty.
Is this too much tea talk?
This was a cup of tea made in the garage! I always get my mug from the house before I start my jobs, so it’s right I put the milk in from the kitchen at the same time (no milk kept in garage you see). Then I walk out to the garage, boil the kettle, and then make my tea, so you see, I’m not a complete tea-drinking savage! Also, this particular mug is big. I choose it when I’m doing jobs, so I get a big drink. I leave the tea bag in so it gets proper tasty.
Is this too much tea talk?
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Nah bro love it all.
FINAL UPDATE:
It’s now 100% finished. The final side artwork arrived from Spain from the same person that made the stickers for the rear power panel, and the interior “danger” stickers earlier in the year. The quality of the prints were superb. When compared to the originals, the reprints were marginally darker (or bluer, for more of a better word), but I was still very happy with how the stickers turned out.
This afternoon was raining, so I wiped down the cabinet - it’s amazing how dusty it gets inside the house (I’m forever wiping it down). Anyway, I hung up the artwork with masking tape and marked out where I needed to install it. I peeled a small amount of the backing paper off and started massaging the sticker down the cabinet, with a soft cloth wrapped over my fingers to stop air bubbles forming. Once both sides were installed, I stood back and looked at the machine with a side-on view. It looks amazing! Even though you don’t really see the side art, especially as my cabinet is located in a small alcove, I’m super happy knowing that it’s finally done. I was apprehensive attaching the side art, but it wasn’t as difficult as first thought. Just take your time, and ensure the art is lined up 1000%. Once it is, massage away and you won’t even see an air bubble appear.
Side-on view looks great:
The colour is marginally darker than the original, but it really pops against the sparkly paint, and matches well with the new Alberto control panel:
Print quality was superb, and the stickers are very heavy duty:
How did I do with the lining up? It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty close. I was happy with how the sticking application went:
Over the past couple of weeks I ordered a Neo Geo MVS (Jamma) unit, and a 161-in-1 cartridge from the sales forum on here. It arrived last week and now I can finally play the Metal Slug games perfectly from cartridge.
Test fit below:
Earlier today, my Konami Classic JAMMA adapter arrived in the post from Spain, which also has built-in button mappings attached to jumpers. It was built and sold by @Tailsnic Retroworks via the sales forum, and it’s a really nice bit of kit. It’s well made, with good soldering. Now I can play my Nemesis PCB with the correct button controls.
Occasionally, I swap in the Pandora for a bash on Street Fighter 2 Turbo, Marvel VS Capcom, Sunset Riders or The Simpsons. I’m so impressed at that little Chinese box of tricks for the price it cost. I know it’s emulation *booo* *hissss* but for games that I just play occasionally, you can’t argue that it’s not cheap or convenient.
Having said that, swapping over the control panel from my single panel layout, over to the dual panel is a bit of a pain though, so I’m definitely going to have to find another cabinet to add to the room to keep as my 2p setup. I was able to find an original 1L6B Windy 2 panel on Yahoo Auctions, for the princely sum of just £5 (1000¥). It needs work, but I figured it’s something I can practice restoring at a later date.
Bundled in the same mail package from
Japan were two extra Konami JAMMA to JVS adapter boards for the Windy 2. I’ve got three in total now, and they stay permanently attached to the wooden boards (with game PCBs affixed to). It means I can hot-swap in/out my favourite games quicker. One adapter was already attached to Vulcan Venture (Gradius 2), the other is attached to Nemesis (Gradius), and the third is attached to the Pandora.
I had my first paying customers over at Christmas - the nephews visited along with their hard earned pocket money! Don’t worry…..I gave them a good exchange rate for their gaming yens!
They loved the fighting games the most, and Metal Slug X which we completed with 18 continues for me & 21 continues for Nephew #1:
Do you remember during the initial restoration period back in Summer I was trying to track down a scan of the instruction sheet for Gradius 4? Well, the one I found online was very pixelated despite getting it professionally printed. In the end, I used the paper reproduction that was included with the initial game board purchase from Japan. Well….I’ve been glued to Yahoo Japan auctions ever since, scouring the web for an original instruction sheet, and one finally was listed. I snapped it up straight away! It’s not in perfect condition (has one crease) and a little discolouration, but for 30 years old, beggars can most certainly not be choosers! The chap in Spain who did the sticker reproduction for me earlier, has offered to print me a repaired instruction sheet. I can scan it, he will touch it up and edit out the imperfections, and re-print it for me. I love the idea of having a mint instruction sheet, but a part of me says “it’s not original”….and I wonder if I start making everything too perfect, the cab will lose character. One could say by painting it and reproducing the side art, I’ve already gone too far in that respect, but at least the game stuff can be original, right?
You can see that there is a small amount of laminate peel on the top right corner:
The crease can be seen going through where the question mark is located:
Overall, the effect is still amazing though:
Should I keep the original instruction sheet, or get a perfect, modern day scan printed and installed?
What do you think I should do?
It’s now 100% finished. The final side artwork arrived from Spain from the same person that made the stickers for the rear power panel, and the interior “danger” stickers earlier in the year. The quality of the prints were superb. When compared to the originals, the reprints were marginally darker (or bluer, for more of a better word), but I was still very happy with how the stickers turned out.
This afternoon was raining, so I wiped down the cabinet - it’s amazing how dusty it gets inside the house (I’m forever wiping it down). Anyway, I hung up the artwork with masking tape and marked out where I needed to install it. I peeled a small amount of the backing paper off and started massaging the sticker down the cabinet, with a soft cloth wrapped over my fingers to stop air bubbles forming. Once both sides were installed, I stood back and looked at the machine with a side-on view. It looks amazing! Even though you don’t really see the side art, especially as my cabinet is located in a small alcove, I’m super happy knowing that it’s finally done. I was apprehensive attaching the side art, but it wasn’t as difficult as first thought. Just take your time, and ensure the art is lined up 1000%. Once it is, massage away and you won’t even see an air bubble appear.
Side-on view looks great:
The colour is marginally darker than the original, but it really pops against the sparkly paint, and matches well with the new Alberto control panel:
Print quality was superb, and the stickers are very heavy duty:
How did I do with the lining up? It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty close. I was happy with how the sticking application went:
Over the past couple of weeks I ordered a Neo Geo MVS (Jamma) unit, and a 161-in-1 cartridge from the sales forum on here. It arrived last week and now I can finally play the Metal Slug games perfectly from cartridge.
Test fit below:
Earlier today, my Konami Classic JAMMA adapter arrived in the post from Spain, which also has built-in button mappings attached to jumpers. It was built and sold by @Tailsnic Retroworks via the sales forum, and it’s a really nice bit of kit. It’s well made, with good soldering. Now I can play my Nemesis PCB with the correct button controls.
Occasionally, I swap in the Pandora for a bash on Street Fighter 2 Turbo, Marvel VS Capcom, Sunset Riders or The Simpsons. I’m so impressed at that little Chinese box of tricks for the price it cost. I know it’s emulation *booo* *hissss* but for games that I just play occasionally, you can’t argue that it’s not cheap or convenient.
Having said that, swapping over the control panel from my single panel layout, over to the dual panel is a bit of a pain though, so I’m definitely going to have to find another cabinet to add to the room to keep as my 2p setup. I was able to find an original 1L6B Windy 2 panel on Yahoo Auctions, for the princely sum of just £5 (1000¥). It needs work, but I figured it’s something I can practice restoring at a later date.
Bundled in the same mail package from
Japan were two extra Konami JAMMA to JVS adapter boards for the Windy 2. I’ve got three in total now, and they stay permanently attached to the wooden boards (with game PCBs affixed to). It means I can hot-swap in/out my favourite games quicker. One adapter was already attached to Vulcan Venture (Gradius 2), the other is attached to Nemesis (Gradius), and the third is attached to the Pandora.
I had my first paying customers over at Christmas - the nephews visited along with their hard earned pocket money! Don’t worry…..I gave them a good exchange rate for their gaming yens!
They loved the fighting games the most, and Metal Slug X which we completed with 18 continues for me & 21 continues for Nephew #1:
Do you remember during the initial restoration period back in Summer I was trying to track down a scan of the instruction sheet for Gradius 4? Well, the one I found online was very pixelated despite getting it professionally printed. In the end, I used the paper reproduction that was included with the initial game board purchase from Japan. Well….I’ve been glued to Yahoo Japan auctions ever since, scouring the web for an original instruction sheet, and one finally was listed. I snapped it up straight away! It’s not in perfect condition (has one crease) and a little discolouration, but for 30 years old, beggars can most certainly not be choosers! The chap in Spain who did the sticker reproduction for me earlier, has offered to print me a repaired instruction sheet. I can scan it, he will touch it up and edit out the imperfections, and re-print it for me. I love the idea of having a mint instruction sheet, but a part of me says “it’s not original”….and I wonder if I start making everything too perfect, the cab will lose character. One could say by painting it and reproducing the side art, I’ve already gone too far in that respect, but at least the game stuff can be original, right?
You can see that there is a small amount of laminate peel on the top right corner:
The crease can be seen going through where the question mark is located:
Overall, the effect is still amazing though:
Should I keep the original instruction sheet, or get a perfect, modern day scan printed and installed?
What do you think I should do?
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Retroman839
Senior Member
Keep original in 👍
White coin entry is nice also ..
White coin entry is nice also ..
K1ngarth3r
Active member
Turned out great.
Great story, especially the impulsive PCB buy! Well done on the restoration, you have inspired me to get my WIndy 2 put together again and hopefully working!
I don’t wish to thread crash and I will create my own resto thread, but does your Windy 2 have a little board with a D SUB (VGA) connector which plugs into the RGB connector on the chassis below?
I think I might be missing this part. The chassis is the original Toshiba PB7534.
I don’t wish to thread crash and I will create my own resto thread, but does your Windy 2 have a little board with a D SUB (VGA) connector which plugs into the RGB connector on the chassis below?
I think I might be missing this part. The chassis is the original Toshiba PB7534.
Attachments
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your resto!
I’m not using the original Windy 2 chassis (Toshiba PB7534), as it was missing from my cabinet. I wasn’t able to find another chassis, so I installed a Nanao MS2930 chassis in its place.
Yes, I do have a little board with d-sub (VGA) connector connected to the main board of the MS2930. You can see it in the lower corner of the photo here. It looks like it has a similar connector to your Toshiba chassis. Feel free to send me a PM if you’d like some more info.
I’m not using the original Windy 2 chassis (Toshiba PB7534), as it was missing from my cabinet. I wasn’t able to find another chassis, so I installed a Nanao MS2930 chassis in its place.
Yes, I do have a little board with d-sub (VGA) connector connected to the main board of the MS2930. You can see it in the lower corner of the photo here. It looks like it has a similar connector to your Toshiba chassis. Feel free to send me a PM if you’d like some more info.
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Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your resto!
I’m not using the original Windy 2 chassis (Toshiba PB7534), as it was missing from my cabinet. I wasn’t able to find another chassis, so I installed a Nanao MS2930 chassis in its place.
Yes, I do have a little board with d-sub (VGA) connector connected to the main board of the MS2930. You can see it in the lower corner of the photo here. It looks like it has a similar connector to your Toshiba chassis. Feel free to send me a PM if you’d like some more info.
Yes, the module is part of the Nanao chassis but is removable. The cables disconnect quite easily, and if you zoom in, you can see a couple of small screws.
Your Toshiba probably uses something similar, but I struggled to even find a complete spare Toshiba PB7534, so you might struggle to locate the mini D-sub board by itself.
Yes you are correct, the VGA cable connects between the VGA output on my game board (Gradius IV hornet JVS setup), and runs to the Windy 2 large output panel on the rear of the cab. This effectively splits the signal to other external VGA ports situated on the rear of the cabinet, and one of those connects to the VGA input on that D-Sub board attached to the chassis. You can also connect the game board directly to the chassis and the effect is the same. Obviously if you do that, the external RGB port on the rear of the cabinet would be non-functional.
Your Toshiba probably uses something similar, but I struggled to even find a complete spare Toshiba PB7534, so you might struggle to locate the mini D-sub board by itself.
Yes you are correct, the VGA cable connects between the VGA output on my game board (Gradius IV hornet JVS setup), and runs to the Windy 2 large output panel on the rear of the cab. This effectively splits the signal to other external VGA ports situated on the rear of the cabinet, and one of those connects to the VGA input on that D-Sub board attached to the chassis. You can also connect the game board directly to the chassis and the effect is the same. Obviously if you do that, the external RGB port on the rear of the cabinet would be non-functional.
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Thanks for this information, it’s much appreciated.
It sounds like I may have to go down the Nanao replacement route and maybe keep an eye out on YAJ for the connector. It’s useful to know I should be able to test the rest of the setup with a VGA compatible monitor in the meantime.
That board at the rear of the cabinet with the VGA ports on it is missing on mine, but it doesn’t sound like a deal breaker. I did wonder initially why there were so many VGA cables in the box of parts!
Thanks again
It sounds like I may have to go down the Nanao replacement route and maybe keep an eye out on YAJ for the connector. It’s useful to know I should be able to test the rest of the setup with a VGA compatible monitor in the meantime.
That board at the rear of the cabinet with the VGA ports on it is missing on mine, but it doesn’t sound like a deal breaker. I did wonder initially why there were so many VGA cables in the box of parts!
Thanks again
I remember scrabbling around finding the parts for that in JB's garage the last time I saw him - including the front door panel which was tucked underneath another cab. Glad to see its gone to a good home and been restored to its former glory.