What is this converting ?

Retroman839

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I’m trouble shooting
R tuned Lindbergh racing cab

Error
Drive board not connected to main board .

Currently looking at of this
Is possibly the culprit

Small converter pcb
IMG_6225.png

Is this converting
Rs 242 to rs 244 ?
 

Retroman839

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Just power up Lindbergh with coms port 1 ffb output serial connecter lead attatched to the converter pcb .. then scope the outputs ..?

For good square wave

Confirming this is a good board ..
 

Fantazia2

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That converter may work but I have no experience of using one.

This is the pinout from Initial D4 manual as the R-Tuned one I found doesnt have clear wiring schematics.

pinout.jpg

Pinout for that adapter
LO-Blog-RS-232_RS-422_and_RS-485_1024x1024.jpg

Details from a google search for probing the RS422 output, problem is the output may be fine and the input is the issue, and I dont know what the protocol for communication is so no idea what you should be expecting to see.

Scoping RS-422 (differential) output requires measuring the voltage difference between two lines (TX+ and TX-) relative to ground, ideally using two channels with math functions (CH1 - CH2) or a differential probe to avoid shorting. Key indicators include +-2v to +-6v differential signals, clean square waves, and proper termination.


Key Techniques for Scoping RS-422

Differential Measurement (Best): Use a dedicated differential probe to measure directly across TX+ and TX-

Two-Channel Method: Connect CH1 TX+ to and CH2 to TX-, both referenced to ground, then use the scope's math function to display

Single-Ended Spot Check: Monitor TX+ or TX- alone against ground to verify toggling, though this does not confirm the differential integrity.

Ground Reference: Ensure the scope ground is connected to the RS-422 signal ground (reference).


What to Look For

Voltage Levels: Differential voltage should be between 2V and 10V, with a minimum of 2V into a 100ohm load.

Signal Integrity: Look for clean square waves. Reflections or rounded edges indicate poor termination or excessive cable length.

Common Mode Voltage: The signals should mirror each other around a common-mode voltage (often 0V to 2.5V), staying within -7V to +7V relative to ground.


Troubleshooting

No Signal: Check that the driver is powered and the TX+ and TX- lines are not swapped.

Low Voltage: Ensure the line is terminated with a 100ohm to 120ohm resistor at the receiver.

Reflections/Noise: Verify that the cable is a twisted pair and that the cable length is appropriate for the baud rate
 

Retroman839

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That’s super mate thank you
Exactly what I needed ,
Appreciate that bud 👍👍
Super detailed info

I will look for a diferential probe.

But your detailed info seems to verify my results with the multi meter..
Being 0.5v to 1.2v idle .. ( no command from main board )

I should try a new rs242 to rs442 converter .. first
And swapping the Lindbergh into the other side of the rtuned twin also ..

But having tried both motor servo pcbs
and both converter PCB’s ..

With no joy could be bad connections or that one of either of the two PCB’s ( motor driver board and converter could be bad also ..

If new rs242 to rs422 dosent work .. then I guess I need to start to look at the motor driver boards
 
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Retroman839

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Just seen Lindbergh does midi out too for ffb ..



I just got some card readers 👍

What you think most likely suspect gone bad in my cab is ?

Converter board
Or motor driver board ?

Or Logic board on motor ( hope it’s not this !)
 
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Retroman839

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IMG_6384.jpeg
My motor drive board just stays with led blinking - ( no connection to main board )

I am gettin The converter you used,

Did you make a female connector for it like this
IMG_6379.jpeg

So it goes direct into motor servo pcb ?
Thnx
 

Vamino

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Just seen Lindbergh does midi out too for ffb ..



I just got some card readers 👍

What you think most likely suspect gone bad in my cab is ?

Converter board
Or motor driver board ?

Or Logic board on motor ( hope it’s not this !)
Hard to say whats at fault, my guess would be the FFB driver board.
I can't see it being the motor, I've never come across one of those fail, who knows tho.

If all your wires have continuity and everything is unmodified and plugged into where it should be, then it should just work.

With your test cab being Lindbergh based, then you can cross reference it with either the Lindbergh or Ringedge schematics.

https://segaretro.org/images/4/49/InitialD4_Lindbergh_Manual_Standard.pdf
 

Vamino

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View attachment 54925
My motor drive board just stays with led blinking - ( no connection to main board )

I am gettin The converter you used,

Did you make a female connector for it like this
View attachment 54926

So it goes direct into motor servo pcb ?
Thnx
I made the wiring myself, then used a section from a parted out cab. I had to use different connector housing as the first board I used was a chinese version of the FFB drive board, rather than the Japanese PCB.

Check the schematics mate, I can't remember offhand the ins and outs.
 

Retroman839

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I made the wiring myself, then used a section from a parted out cab. I had to use different connector housing as the first board I used was a chinese version of the FFB drive board, rather than the Japanese PCB.

Check the schematics mate, I can't remember offhand the ins and outs.
It’s cool
I have a load of the connecters all wired already.

The fact the led is blinking on the ffb drive board makes me suspect it is ok ..

Só it only leaves the converter or my Lindbergh I’m using has a bad com port I guess is a possibility
 

Retroman839

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Thanks for the vid ..
I have two motor drive boards and two converts as well
And two serial connecting cables but no combo of them worked ..

But both motor driver PCB’s behave the same blinking led ..
Só I’m taking posative vibes from that and just waiting on the postman ..

Monitor chasis went pop
Pfx

Só looks like I will take the easy way out with HD l screen .
 
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