Any interest in a Group buy in wigan 3x noir?

Retroman839

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For sake of Good Earth bonding
I’m removing paint and brighting the metal Here
image.jpgIMG_0604.jpeg
Not done carry handle yet but got the stickers back on ;)image.jpg
 
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Retroman839

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Iona jvs to usb connected to ttx2 niko multi ..

I get this on power up image.jpg
Could not read dips ?

Assuming dips on mother board ..

Remove the board and image.jpg
Multi loads fine


Ok I need to flash updated firmware to the Iona pcb
 
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Rob_bob_2k6

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image.jpg
Looks the same as my old busted one. I think it will work fine. I had a weird line down the middle and bad convergence with a pfx but the one from Mo works perfectly.


Just to add, I think the degaus connectors will be slightly different to your tube. If you find what connector should be for new chassis, let me know as bean degaus-less for a while as not got round to it.
 

Retroman839

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View attachment 66253
Looks the same as my old busted one. I think it will work fine. I had a weird line down the middle and bad convergence with a pfx but the one from Mo works perfectly.


Just to add, I think the degaus connectors will be slightly different to your tube. If you find what connector should be for new chassis, let me know as bean degaus-less for a while as not got round to it.
Yeh will do ..
Not sure how quick i will get to the monitor situation yet though
 

Retroman839

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Checked on arcade project tube yoke spec
Toshiba PF D29C051 (from Sega New Net City)
Tube: Toshiba A68LTF356X
Neck: B10-277
Chassis: PD1843
Yoke:
LhLvRhRv
0.30 mH14.8 mH0.9 ohm8.2 ohm


Toshiba PF D29C051 (from Sega New Net City)
Tube: Toshiba A68LTF356X
Neck: B10-277
Chassis: PB9929
Yoke:
LhLvRhRv
0.30 mH15.2 mH0.9 ohm8.3 ohm
 

Retroman839

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Nesica version on the multi is 4:3 with the sides filled either some art work.
Xbox online ver is actually very nice.
But I guess nesica feel that the preservation of the original 4:3 was the best way to go. Keeping the original screen format .

Original 4;3 crt is obviously the best.
But I think Xbox online ver is best I have tried so far on a led hd wide screen.

I still haven’t played roms that are circulating with sf3 second impact levels added and wide screen .
 

Retroman839

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Plan B for if I cannot get my Iona jvs to usb to work with ttx2 multi .

make a sega jvs to jamma io .IMG_0638.jpeg
I have orderd one of these
IMG_0639.png

To tidy it all up
Any one know of a small 30 way quick disconnect ?
 
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nam9

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Iona jvs to usb connected to ttx2 niko multi ..

I get this on power up View attachment 66251
Could not read dips ?

Assuming dips on mother board ..

Remove the board and View attachment 66252
Multi loads fine


Ok I need to flash updated firmware to the Iona pcb
Did you try this config?

Activate JVS data signal level adjustment
On 1.43 and later, booting with the TEST button pressed will flip the current settings.
 

Retroman839

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Retroman839

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Did you try this config?

Activate JVS data signal level adjustment
On 1.43 and later, booting with the TEST button pressed will flip the current settings.
image.jpg
Holding test button down before booting and keeping it held down
..

Same result
Upon the could not read dips error
Blinking light imedeatly turns solidimage.jpg

From AP

If it's anything like TTX2 you have to upgrade the firmware to 1.43 or later and boot with the test button held to change the JVS signal level. You only have to do this once. I wouldn't worry about trying to discover the FW version and just update to the latest.


Ok I’m on latest firmware 2.4 confirmed using the tool on the firmware site that tells you what firmware your running .

So I hold test button down on boot .


As soon as I get the could not read dips message the blinky turns solid



I have sussed out the mode test + service .. then hit test led blinky flashes once …. Your in mode 1
Press test again Led blinky flashes twice .,,,, your in mode 2. Etc.. etc ..

But that don’t help me to get past the error that my ttx2 aint seeing this Iona jvs to usb.
 
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