That's next, I'll take the deflection out tomorrow. Is there a special way to do it? I had a look earlier and it looks like I need to take the neckboard with it unless I'm mistaken.tb lilley said:
Help me fix my Star Wars
- Thread starter muddymusic
- Start date
Thanks for that. I'll check the error codes first thing tomorrow before I do anything else.
muddymusic said:Brick had a good clean, all contacts cleaned up and stuff reseated.
Seems to have done the trick!
Nice steady 14.4v on pins 1-3 so that's one problem down.
Pulled AR2 to rebuild it.
All done.
Put it back in the cab and took some readings.
+5v 5.00v
+10.3v Unreg 13.5v
+12v 12.3v
-5v -6.3v
-22v -24.6v
+22v -24.8v
Nice work, my AR2 rebuild kits rule.
Indeed they do sir, indeed they do
Put it in test mode and all the beeps are good.
Taking out deflection board now.
Taking out deflection board now.
Pics of deflection pcb.
Evidence of some previous work.
Evidence of some previous work.
All fuses check ok
All transistors within expected ranges .580-.720
I guess now I'm at the stage where I need to wait to hear if my pcb is poorly before doing any more.
All transistors within expected ranges .580-.720
I guess now I'm at the stage where I need to wait to hear if my pcb is poorly before doing any more.
Ronnie Dent
Active member
That soldering is rough maybe give you time to tidy that up? Is that a burn on the plug in pic4? nice project all the same be good to see that burst back to life
Ronnie
Ronnie
Yeah that looks like the burn from whatever caused it to be repaired before. I've checked continuity across the repairs and it's all good.
Just been checking diodes and getting ready to install the LV2000.
Just been checking diodes and getting ready to install the LV2000.
david_orton_2000
Green Mario
Fuses all good, this is a nice sign...shows the chassis transistors are all ok normally.
-Can you not borrow a scope?...that way you can test the pcb...
-Can you fire it up and listen for the audio codes as someone posted earlier?
The burning around R100...normal, I would just replace the section with the LV2000 kit...just better than R100 burning a hole (which my deflection had). :-(
You may have some issues on the HV cage, but you need to remove it from the tube to test/check of course...do you have a discharge wand?
Carry on the testing...you're doing well!
Cheers,
DaveO.
-Can you not borrow a scope?...that way you can test the pcb...
-Can you fire it up and listen for the audio codes as someone posted earlier?
The burning around R100...normal, I would just replace the section with the LV2000 kit...just better than R100 burning a hole (which my deflection had). :-(
You may have some issues on the HV cage, but you need to remove it from the tube to test/check of course...do you have a discharge wand?
Carry on the testing...you're doing well!
Cheers,
DaveO.
Equites is going to test the pcb for me to save me getting a scope. If his theory of the DAC being bad is correct then we'll know soon
Did the audio test this morning, all beeps are good.
LV2000 installed now, get to bypass all that horrible burnt area.
Did the audio test this morning, all beeps are good.
LV2000 installed now, get to bypass all that horrible burnt area.
Nice bypass must get round to installing my kit on my tempest monitor
david_orton_2000
Green Mario
I notice this is one of the later deflection boards...P327, so it has had some upgrades the earlier P314 did not have as standard of course. Notice the 4 larger diodes in the rectification section, this is far better the tiny ones in the original design.
The HV cage should really have the 2x pico fuses adding to protect the other circuitry from failure.
-you can get these separately, no need for the 'kit' from the US, just get the parts off Ebay, RS, Farnell, etc.
The HV cage should really have the 2x pico fuses adding to protect the other circuitry from failure.
-you can get these separately, no need for the 'kit' from the US, just get the parts off Ebay, RS, Farnell, etc.
Great writeup so far Olly, hoping this will spring back into life, does sound more like the PCB to me than the monitor.
If you were getting odd voltages out of the brick then the AR2 wasn't getting the right stuff, the +/-22v line is used for the vector amps on the pcb so if that side was failing then yes it'd get dimmer and dimmer. Its possible the DAC's or something in that section was on its way out so the two just happened to be in tandem with each other.
Mr Equites will without doubt do a sterling job if needed. He nursed mine back from a pile of corroded parts back to a fully working SW that i've had (fortunately) very little trouble from.
If you were getting odd voltages out of the brick then the AR2 wasn't getting the right stuff, the +/-22v line is used for the vector amps on the pcb so if that side was failing then yes it'd get dimmer and dimmer. Its possible the DAC's or something in that section was on its way out so the two just happened to be in tandem with each other.
Mr Equites will without doubt do a sterling job if needed. He nursed mine back from a pile of corroded parts back to a fully working SW that i've had (fortunately) very little trouble from.
Right, so the SW PCB from Olly arrived a day or two ago and I managed to find time to look at it.
It is a very nice and clean PCB set, one of the cleanest I have seen.
I hooked it all up and fired her up. I heard Obi Wan's 'The force will be with you...' which was a very good sign the PCB is running.
Except, no video.
So, I checked DACs, they both checked out fine. Then my attention turned to the AVG chip. So I bunged in one of mine;
All running fine now.
Equites2015-04-16 16:40:02
It is a very nice and clean PCB set, one of the cleanest I have seen.
I hooked it all up and fired her up. I heard Obi Wan's 'The force will be with you...' which was a very good sign the PCB is running.
Except, no video.
So, I checked DACs, they both checked out fine. Then my attention turned to the AVG chip. So I bunged in one of mine;
All running fine now.
Equites2015-04-16 16:40:02
You f**king rock.