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lesoleil70 said:
I know a collector who got the topper, but it is from a cockpit, is it the same?
If so tell me and I scan it for you, the rest is easy....
Pole Position II restoration
- Thread starter muddymusic
- Start date
I know a collector who got the topper, but it is from a cockpit, is it the same?
If so tell me and I scan it for you, the rest is easy....
It is a cockpit topper that I'm working from. I don't think the Euro upright ever had one - I just thought it would be nice to have one on the cab. I'm about 40% through the vectoring, a scan would be very helpful in getting it completely accurate if you can do that
Takeman or oooold Phetishboy over on klov might give you the file
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=197123
strykr2015-03-13 23:48:59
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=197123
strykr2015-03-13 23:48:59
I did send him a message and pointed him to this thread so he could see what I was up to with if but never got a reply.
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muddymusic said:It is a cockpit topper that I'm working from. I don't think the Euro upright ever had one - I just thought it would be nice to have one on the cab. I'm about 40% through the vectoring, a scan would be very helpful in getting it completely accurate if you can do that
It was bought and importet from eBay.com, he never had the game to it.
I will organize that for you.
Revised CPO print has arrived, it's perfect this time.
I'll be getting on with cleaning the other side this week then starting to slowly rebuild it a piece at a time.
I've been pondering on whether to get filler around the bottom edge where it's a bit gnarled, but the white really isn't white and so after a test area that looked crap have decided I'll leave that alone.
I'll be getting on with cleaning the other side this week then starting to slowly rebuild it a piece at a time.
I've been pondering on whether to get filler around the bottom edge where it's a bit gnarled, but the white really isn't white and so after a test area that looked crap have decided I'll leave that alone.
silverfox0786
Beware the Hillman
this restore is coming on nicely
lesoleil70
Active member
That is nice - I'll be ordering one as a long term spare.
muddymusic said:What was left in the bottom of the cab.
that clear plastic item (top right) is to cover the microswitch below the mechanical coin mechanism, but I'm pretty sure you already knew that
I also have some new pins for the opto plug if you need any? I'll post you some off free, just let me know
jengineer2015-03-23 21:30:40
I hadn't figure that out as it happens, now you've said what it's from it seems obvious! Thanks for the offer of the pins, if I need to replace them I'll give you a shout.
On with cleaning up the other side.
The art on this cab really can't take much of a going over with the magic erasers so it's gently gently on the cleaning.
Top right healf is cleaned, bottom left half is as it was. Amazing how well it works on the white areas.
Fixing up the broken top edge with some wood glue. Clamped and weighed down with a transformer. Bottom edge has been treated with some hardener to make sure it doesn't flake away any more.
Touch up on the art with paint pens. These work best on the black areas. Looks pretty good now.
Once paint and glue are dry time to fit new t-moulding.
Checked the groove was clear along the whole edges of the cab as the moulding wraps right around. Ready with a rubber mallet, my glue gun for the tricky edges and a new stanley blade for trimming angles. From experience I've learned it's best to tap in a few moulding pins at the start and end of the run so it doesn't pop out of the groove. It's under the cab so not visible anyway.
It's certainly easier to do this when the cab is completely empty so you can put in on its side.
Both sides all done now, and it's looking a lot better than it did.
Before
Now
Next up to sort the loom, monitor and AR2's so I can give it all a test in the cab.
muddymusic2015-04-30 11:17:12
The art on this cab really can't take much of a going over with the magic erasers so it's gently gently on the cleaning.
Top right healf is cleaned, bottom left half is as it was. Amazing how well it works on the white areas.
Fixing up the broken top edge with some wood glue. Clamped and weighed down with a transformer. Bottom edge has been treated with some hardener to make sure it doesn't flake away any more.
Touch up on the art with paint pens. These work best on the black areas. Looks pretty good now.
Once paint and glue are dry time to fit new t-moulding.
Checked the groove was clear along the whole edges of the cab as the moulding wraps right around. Ready with a rubber mallet, my glue gun for the tricky edges and a new stanley blade for trimming angles. From experience I've learned it's best to tap in a few moulding pins at the start and end of the run so it doesn't pop out of the groove. It's under the cab so not visible anyway.
It's certainly easier to do this when the cab is completely empty so you can put in on its side.
Both sides all done now, and it's looking a lot better than it did.
Before
Now
Next up to sort the loom, monitor and AR2's so I can give it all a test in the cab.
muddymusic2015-04-30 11:17:12
Had that ages. It's next on the list to restore after this. I've got full Roadblasters, Marble Madness, and Indy kits but no indy pcb sadly!
This is coming on really nicely. Some good posts on this thread, that have really helped me as I tackle my first cab resto.
Can't wait to see it finished. I rekindled my connection with this cab last weekend at Arcade Club.
Great work.
Neil.
Can't wait to see it finished. I rekindled my connection with this cab last weekend at Arcade Club.
Great work.
Neil.
Very nice restoration as usual
AdamsArcade
Newbie
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Great thread and great restoration muddy! I love reading these restoration threads. Very inspiring. Reminds me to make more of an effort with my cabs.
