Twin Sega Mame Driving Cab Upgrades, LCDs, I/O FFB, Wiring....

Bods

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Blimey over a year ago I was doing this. been quite busy working on them again as years ago I bought some of the later Immersion FFB I/O boards from member here or may have been J+ and it was about time I got to work on them and get them fitted

I originally used Act Labs wheels stripped down for wheel/Pedal setup and was going down amplifier for voltage to power these motors but the all in one Immersion is perfect setup when I have the matching wheel mechs, another reason for those was I was thinking I could also Run a Dreamcast in the cab to play the driving games on that but with emulators and pc's good enough now we can play them all
As I'd fitted everything to the back of the dash and now really needed to fit the new board in machine base so time remove all from dash and start again and do everything twice as it's twin cab as other half loves driving games also, new wiring as it wasn't best job before, bits of wires joined everywhere, this time using more Amp Connectors and sega wiring with matching colour all way through, can use pin from connector to remove the pins/plugs from them and solder wires to them so look neat, got a box of sega wiring so nothing to buy apart from one 4 pin connector used on the shifters which i'd only got one, wasn't joking I'm reusing all the cable ties also as no need to waste anything
Speaker system has 5.1 sound so I added centre speakers where the older cabs had dash tweeters, not sure if games are really going to use them but kept them and wired back up

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Bods

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I’m not familiar with this type
Of set up ..
Looks interesting
.. will this add ffb to the
Dreamcast racers emulated on a pc then?
same as the Sega Rally 3 i'm working on
Dreamcast games only had Rumble Pack, not sure if anything added in emulators to enable that through the wheel, be good if they had though
 

Bods

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Original PC setup was a Gigabyte board with AMD 64 Athlon II X2 270 3.4ghz, when i came to switch left cab on they wouldn't boot and shut down again, turns out the plastic tag the heaksink clip goes on snapped off, the other cab was okay last year but when i came to swap over the pc in that one its done the same, anyway they were getting outed for the new Ryzen ones

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to fit PC's in I used some old case plates, ones that were removable from main case, this one was a pain as bottom at back extends lower than the rest so I needed to raise it up, some plastic trim off cuts from secondary glazing done job nicely, cut the extra off the top rear and reduced the length of the metal base

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The other one I'd fitted in before the new wood to test games running

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Bods

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One seat had what I assume was original wiring the other nothing as cab only had front speakers from new, so i've copied the wiring from other to make this one better, added the correct 2 pin connectors as i had some spare for gullbox speakers, before they were both a bodge with joined together wiring and you had to unplug all the cables from Subwoofer in base if you removed the seat and stripping that down was a pain so I've done it in stages now with 6 pin amp connector (seat sub and gullbox speakers) then to an 8 pin amp connector to add in the Handbrake cable which then sticks out enough to connect under the seat hinged plate

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Mess before with it all joined and any old wires used

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can unplug each stage of seat strip down now and extra cable between for seat adjustment forward/back

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Bods

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Much neater now and can unplug seat to remove it with one connector

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Made new loom for subwoofer in base to seat speakers and subwoofer and sufwooer to front of cab base to front speakers copying other cab

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